Washington, DC thru the Dismal Swamp, September 28 - October 3, 2014

September 28 - October 3, 2014



Following our midday departure from Washington, D.C., we motored down the Potomac River to a point one mile south of Potomac Creek where we efficiently dropped anchor for the night. In slam-dunk mode, we completed the anchoring process in a speedy six minutes, complete with snubber and lock. Surprised even myself!

 

Clay to the rescue Monday morning as I tried to put in my half-hour cardio on the Nordic Track skier; the arm pulley was misbehaving, so my hero appeared with duck tape in hand. The skier is a hog when it comes to our two best friends, WD-40 (actually a silicon spray) and Duck Tape; I do hope it survives the trip.


Following our anchor pull on Monday, I completed some morning chores around the 'house' until I was called to the fly bridge to assist Clay in comprehending the directives from the range boat captain; not only red and green channel markers, we now have yellow to guide us. Because we were traveling thru a firing range, we had a precise route to follow lest we get blown up. Clay called my attention to some huge water spouts in the distance off to our starboard side which were accompanied by resounding blasts moments later. 

A few miles earlier before we came to the range, Clay heard a loud sound and the boat shook noticably.  He quickly pulled the throttles back and placed the shifters in neutral and began looking for a log to surface behind the boat.  None surfaced, so we shifted the engines to forward and advanced the throttles cautiously--no vibration, no problem?  When we started hearing the large gun fire and saw the projectiles hitting beside us, we realized we didn't encounter a log but the concussion from a large gun firing.  Later we learned this was a Navel test range for large Navel guns.


Safely through the range, we continued on to Yeocomico River where we turned upriver about two miles to arrive at Olverson's Lodge Creek Marina. Olverson's is located on one of the many tributaries of the Yeocomico which branch in all directions; the Yeocomico offers deep water and anchorages protected from weather and beautiful scenery along its mostly undeveloped, wooded shores. 

Owner Freddy greeted us warmly at Olverson's as his son-in-law Steve secured our lines. Freddy is a friend to MTOA, providing overnight dockage as well as electric and water free of charge. Also available was his courtesy car, but there were few destinations for travel. Small town Virginia, was limited even more by Monday closings of many of the few available restaurants.

Wildlife in the Dismal Swamp

Captain Clay called an earlier-than-normal departure for Tuesday morning, but Mother Nature had other plans as we awakened to a dense layer of fog. With only an hour delay, we soon found ourselves cruising under sunny skies but chillier temperatures. Five hours later we docked at Norview Marina on the Rapahannock River in Deltaville, VA. We completed the day in project mode as Clay cleaned the grill while I processed a load of laundry and Matt the diver changed out the zincs on the shaft.

Deltaville Dock Graffiti

I walked solo Wednesday morning, discovering that this town, where boats outnumber people four-to-one, is truly dedicated to boating. I followed the main road into 'town' (which is spread out along Route 33, lacking any clearly organized town center as in other ports) along which I found retail establishments dedicated to canvas and sailmaking, mattresses and bedding for boats, sign-painting for boats, nautical nic-nacs and the like. And, I must have passed at least four or five other marinas/boat yards. I'd left Clay at the boat to deal with a mechanic/electrician (battery issues) which delayed our departure by only an hour or so.

As we departed Deltaville, Clay's desire for Wednesday's overnight anchorage was Langley AFB just outside of Norfolk. Reportedly, it's a prime location for hearing Taps as the sun sets and Reveille as the sun rises. But we'd have another day on the Bay Thursday in crossing to Norfolk and points south. My reply was to "Get me off of this Bay!" I have been so not fond of the rocking and rolling that we've encountered on the Bay itself! The Potomac was nice as were a few of the uniquely-named rivers, off-shoots of the Potomac and Chesapeake. But there was only one calm day of the many we traveled on the Bay! So we set our sights on Willoughby Bay, crossing the Chesapeake with me at the helm for much of the afternoon. We alternated between rough and smooth sailing as the day progressed, with the boat's direction the biggest factor in quality of our ride.

 
 




We anchored successfully overnight (meaning, we awakened in the morning where we started the night before). I slept with ear plugs most of the night, a constant slapping noise of waves against the hull as sleep's foe. Our view Thursday morning was a beautiful sun to the east, but a major overcast to the west. Thankfully, the cloud cover continued westward. Within a short period of time following the anchor pull, we'd reconnected with the ICW and were cruising past Norfolk, VA.That's a BIG HOORAY! Not too many fond memories of the Chesapeake waters!

 






We turned south from Norfolk and encountered our good friends from early Looper days, Ed and Sue Mohler (Shady Acres) when we stopped at Top Rack Marina for fuel.  They were in a hurry to move on to Ft. Lauderdale so our time together was very short (just long enough for them to fuel, pump out and pay); but it was fun to touch base with them for the few minutes we did.

We entered the Dismal Swamp, an alternate route to the Virginia Cut which we had taken northward. This Dismal Swamp was kinda like traveling on a narrow canal. We had to be careful of depth; we draw 4' but this canal is guaranteed to be 6'. Nonetheless, it pays to be cautious.Too, we have to cruise slowly (no more than the recommended five knots top speed) so as not to stir up the bottom and cause submerged logs to surface and become obstacles for us.  Never the less, we tagged 3-4 submerged objects.

The concept for the Dismal Swamp canal was conceived in the 1700s by politicians and entrepreneurs and envisioned as a means to an end--to transport Atlantic white cedar out of the great swamp which would then be drained and farmed (but this latter scheme was unsuccessful).  A VA local named George Washington was the first corporate President of the Dismal Swamp Canal Company.  The money was in the trees. Work began on the canal in 1793 and completed in 1805, providing a sheltered route between Norfolk and the Pasquotank River and Elizabeth City. Over generations, the canal has both prospered and suffered; today it's a national historic landmark that is used mostly by recreational boaters traveling the East Coat. The canal's water primarily comes via the Feeder Ditch from Lake Drummond at the swamp's center. The Dismal Swamp is a national wildlife refuge. 

Immediately upon entering this route, we encountered a lock with a very talkative and handsome mid-50's lock master Robert who informed us the Dismal Swamp is neither a swamp nor is it dismal. Robert owns a tour company business so he was FULL of info which he willingly, rapidly, comprehensively, and cheerfully shared. As he closed the gates to allow us passage up, the pin sheared which put him in fix-it mode. That caused a delay for which he profusely apologized. NBD. He resumed his memorized narrative after we raised in the lock, eye-to-eye with him. He was               a hoot and very entertaining. He sang a few bars from Showboat (Ole Man River), telling us that the Showboat traveled from Portsmouth, VA to Elizabeth City, not on the Mississippi as most folks think. He then picked up a conch shell and proceeded to play the heck out of it, trilling his tongue to make the sound reverberate, also sinking his closed (adjacent) fingers deeper into the opening to make deeper and deeper tones. So cool. Bright sunshine and warmer temps made it that much more enjoyable. I feared that Clay was antsy to move on, but I think he enjoyed it every bit as much as I. It took us a good 1.5 hrs+ to lock thru.

Once we made our plans known to Robert, he quickly dashed off in his truck, telling us to monitor channel 13; and he'd meet us at the bridge. He was also the bridge tender. Robert obviously wore many hats!

Once through, we docked just beyond the bridge for a quick provisioning at Food Lion, Deep Creek, VA, then continued on. Robert's docking directives for a newly-constructed dock and restroom (in the making, but as yet no plumbing) complex approximately five miles post-bridge caused us some concern in that sundown was threatening as we reached five miles with no dock in sight. We took a vote to continue (2-0, unanimous) rather than turn around. And, we were rewarded some three miles later with said dock. Also in sight were the major exterior bolts which would not be user friendly to our hull of which Robert had warned. Honkers they were and well we would be to spot-on cushion with our fenders. Done deal, we snugged in for the night, noting the beautiful canopy of trees and vegitation. Uh oh! What were we thinking? A breeding ground for major mosquitoes! May not be a swamp, this Dismal Swamp, but no one told the mosquitoes! Thankful that I'd prepped and started the Balsamic Chicken crockpot meal at our Deep Creek stop, we shut all doors, opened windows to the breeze and sounds of chirping insects, and dined deliciously.

Clay dubbed this site "Douglass Road Restroom," and early Friday morning, he entered commentary on the Active Captain website for other boaters' use. We are fortunate to have a multitude of resources available for planning purposes on this Great Loop. Word of mouth passes expediently via Active Captain, to name but one online resource.


Running alongside the Dismal Swamp canal at this location is the old two-lane highway which has been turned into a biking, walking/hiking, and horse trail. It is highly popular, given the usage we observed Thursday night and Friday morning. And, we joined in, delighted to have a paved pathway sans cars and trucks.

Following our walk and breakfast, we departed for the south end of the canal. Due to the scheduled opening of the bridge/lock complex, much as we'd experienced at the north end, we stopped at the Dismal Swamp (State Park) Visitors Center and North Carolina Welcome Center to garner a look-see at both and to kill some time.  This rest center is unique in that it serves both the Dismal Swamp Canal as well as a 4-lane divided highway.  The Visitors Center reinforced much of what Robert had told us about the Dismal Swamp, then enhanced some of the information with displays, audio tracks, and animal mounts. They did it up right!


The south lockmaster and bridge tender was counter-opposite to Robert. He was efficient and assisted our passage, but no warm, welcoming words were uttered by him. Aren't people funny! And, in the canal locking through with us was a houseboat, bound for Florida, with the name WTF. Clay figured, in a divorce settlement, the solo captain received this and only this as settlement. Aren't boat names funny as well!

There are several unique bridges on the ICW.  A couple are "pontoon bridges"--a roadway built on pontoons that is "floated" to the side of the channel to allow boats to pass.  One pontoon bridge was located at the Dismal Swamp Rest Center providing access to the Dismal State Park and Interpretive Center.


As we emerged from the Dismal Swamp into the Pasquotank River, we set our sights on Elizabeth City, NC and the Mariners Wharf (city marina) we'd find there.

More later of our experiences as we continue on the Pasquotank River, cross the Albemarle Sound, and enter the Alligator River.