Cumberland Island, GA May 27-28, 2014

May 27-28, 2014

Fort on the north end of Fernandina Beach

Turkey seen from the boat.

Horse from the boat.

Our neighbors at Cumberland Isl.

The only way to shore-by dinghy

Don't know how they rated!!!

Tuesday, May 27th, and we awakened at Cumberland Sound anchored off the Dungeness ruins. We had a nice breeze overnight until we suddenly we didn't. That seems to be a continuing trend! I did my morning stretch routine with frequent interruptions from Clay stepping over and around me. Breakfast was next on the agenda, but not before I set up my Nordic Track for a brief cardio workout. What I failed to realize when I agreed to having the Nordic Track on the stern deck was that, when anchored out, the bow faces into the wind. That means this day that the stern is completely blocked of all wind that now breezily whipped and whirled through the cabin, keeping Clay quite comfy. Further, not only was I sweating in the direct sun at the stern (a sauna in the making), but no-see-'ems were attacking me in the windless conditions. I was merrily (probably a poor word choice considering my attitude at the time) squeezing (sorry to be so 'picturesque' here) no-see-'ems between my fingers as they bit. I felt compelled to go in at the close of my torturous (is that a word?) 30-minute session to spread cheer by placing ONE dead no-see-'em on Clay's inner arm exactly where it bit me then suffered its demise. Of course, Clay could not experience the full effect because said bug was already dead.

Great explorer

Great sport!

Wanting to take a quick shower prior to heading to Cumberland Island, I stepped into the shower stall only to discover the full extent of the compromised water pump. Did I mention that the boat's water pump is going out? It moans and groans, but keeps on pumping with obvious effort. We are nurturing it along in hopes of making it to St. Simons Island where a new one will be installed; unfortunately, of all the spare parts aboard, the water pump is one for which we have no spare. Murphy's Law at work! Back to the shower...you've heard of a teacup bath...well, I took a teacup shower. The pump is failing. That means the pump can only pump so much water (teacup worth) before it dribbles to a stop; then it has to build pressure to be able to pump more water. I shampooed my hair and body with almost no water, then had to turn off the water to allow the pump to pressurize to be able to rinse off the suds. That means the water runs maybe five seconds full force, then diminishes to nothing, for a total flow of maybe ten seconds. Had to repeat that process 4-5 times to rinse suds.You can imagine my happy attitude...not! So, how's your day going? As I got out of the shower, I asked Clay if he was wanting to replace me because the morning as it had played out thus far was a sure-fire way! (Sure hope the pump lasts long enough for Clay and me both to have teacup showers when we get back from the upcoming experience!)

Wild horses grazing

As I seemed to be rapidly accumulating 'downers' this day, I decided I needed to jump-start the happy attitude because we were soon going over to Cumberland Island by dinghy to experience all the Island offers: the history of the Dungeness estate, the charm of the stately old trees, the presence of wild horses and turkeys and hogs, and all of the offerings of nature (the lush vegitation, mosquitoes, ticks, etc). Bug spray required.

OK, so here's the launch-the-dinghy saga: As we climbed aboard the dinghy, we donned our pink ball cap (Sal) and wide-brimmed straw hat (Clay) and prepared to launch. We were dressed in our safari finest as protection against the bugs and the sun and to camouflage ourselves from the wild turkeys, wild horses and any other wild things we might encounter. Clay repeatedly tried in vain to start the 15 hp dinghy motor. So, I, in hood-ornament position, proceeded to rant, "We have just spent $200-300 on this motor...don't tell me it won't start." Of course, Clay continued to calmly flex his biceps (or is it his triceps in this case?), pull-cording another 10+/- times to no avail. I continued, "Hey, let's try this pilot walk-around thing and see what might be the problem." My sixth sense was pulling my eyes to a little red button on the side of the motor to which I called Clay's attention. "What's that?" I asked. "The kill switch," came the reply. "Well, isn't something supposed to be attached to it so you can pull and kill?" says I. Hmmmm...another 393 moment! Sincerely, this Looping experience does work better with two brains thinking, two pairs ears hearing, two pairs eyes seeing, etc. In some instances, it's rather mandatory!

Dungeness ruins

Dungeness ruins

Dungeness ruins

We docked at theDungeness Landing, walked around the grounds where Clay took picture after picture of wild horses, buildings/ruins, grounds, and sites of interest. The ice house with its thick walls and cool interior housed an extensive history of Cumberland Island and the Dungeness estate which was quite impressive at one time, but much of which now lies in ruins, having been destroyed by fire in 1959, alleged to be arson. The Island is maintained as part of the National Park Service. This was one time we should have taken our cell phones because each of the sites had an accompanying ranger-narrated audio which detailed the quite impressive history. 

Turkeys roaming

Looks like a tom to me

Returning for a late lunch at the boat, we first checked ourselves for ticks and other critters that might have clung to our clothing or our persons. We'd been forewarned of the presence of the tick variety that carries Lymes Disease bacteria! Don't wanna deal with that!

Clay determined that we should motor to the north end of the Island for our Tuesday overnight, so we relocated an hour or so later (easier said than done) at Plum Orchard anchorage, stoked up the grill for a second piece of fresh fish (grouper), and enjoyed the later evening. Because we are fairly new to this dramatic (6-8') tides thing, I was hopeful Captain Clay was on his toes and hopeful that the tide swing would not find us aground at low tide. I'm starting to realize how important the tides tables are!

Private residence at Plum Orch

Gotta work that cardio in!

Clay slept in this Wednesday morning, which  delightfully gave me my morning exercise (mat) time solo without his stepping over, around, or on me! There truly isn't a lot of space once I unroll my purple yoga mat. Over coffee an hour later, I made comment about setting up my Nordic Track so I could get my cardio workout done before our departure. He suggested we dinghy to shore and walk. OK. (Not really, but...figuring this to be pretty much parallel conditions to yesterday's shore excursion with dirt roads and bugs).

Two boats passing on the ICW

The dinghy was already positioned for immediate launch as Clay had stowed it on the swim platform (and it had ridden that way the eleven miles we'd traveled yesterday--with me checking it periodically as we'd never done that before, and I was iffy at best on the success rate). We (translated to 'I') made no less than four trips back to the (interior) 'house' (boat), locking and unlocking each time (Clay gets ticked at my security measures), to get what we'd forgotten. Walkie talkie (for mayday call...yeah, that's encouraging); wallet (for Nat'l Park Svc pass); bottled water; and finally a dry shoe for the now soaked one attached to my right foot.  Footnote to this last item...To launch, I was crouched in the dinghy (keep low, right?) with my right leg and foot extended on the swim platform, using those muscles and a rope to hold on. It was a huge surprise as my foot and leg plopped into the water...followed of course, by a none-too-happy exclamation over my now-wet right shoe! We must have drifted with a current stronger than my leg!

Plum Orchard mansion

We tied the dinghy to the boat dock, then walked in quite similar circumstances as yesterday around the grounds of Plum Orchard, the estate built for George Lauder Carnegie, one of the offspring of Thomas and Lucy Carnegie. This was an impressive site with the home having been renovated several years ago, and thus in generally good shape. Literature quotes, "...beautifully maintained Carnegie family home..."; we saw restoration workers' trucks parked nearby, but did not interrupt their work to take a peek inside. 

We are in the wilds!

Prior to incorporating the cardio component into our walk (as in ramping it up a bit!), Clay read aloud the posted sign,  something about "...egrets and alligators." I could have well done without that! Now, as I jogged ahead of him periodically, I was really alert to sighting an alligator. Naive that I am, I should have known of the very real possibility; but naivety does have its benefits!

Back to the dinghy some forty minutes later and launching without incident, Clay accelerated toward the SaSea Sally only to have his wide-brimmed straw hat fly off into the water. Misery loves company. Wet shoe and sock. Wet hat. Touche!

We docked at the swim platform, unloaded, unpacked, winched the dinghy into usual-and-customary position, and prepped to pull anchor and head toward Jekyll Island where we are now arriving with no less than 19 horseflies lining the ceiling of the fly bridge...make that 18 Clay says...he just swatted and killed one.

NSB Kings Bay at night

NSB Kings Bay

NSB Kings Bay facilities.

One of the notable features located on the west side of south Cumberland Island is NSB (Navel Submarine Base) Kings Bay.  This submarine base was located immediately west of the Dungeness anchorage and we had great views of it from the anchorage and when we passed by the base on the ICW. I never saw less than 45' depth in the channel from the ocean to NSB Kings Bay--guess uncle doesn't want to bend one of those 12-15 blade props on a nuclear sub!

Please note that I did not go into great detail on the Cumberland Island history nor on the sights and scenery there. You can Google the island and find detail, if interested. Also, Clay will attach photos to the blog when he posts this entry (www.saseasally.blogspot.com).

Sky over Georgia marsh.