As
we blew into the marked channel of Tangier Island almost three hours after
departure from Onancock, Clay directed me to call Mr. Parks (Parks Marina) when
my mood allowed not even a smidgen of congeniality (remember, it had been a
rough ride); but, duty called, and I certainly had no desire to wing it with
winds as they were (brisk) and tide as it was (low). So I rose to the occasion,
but got no response; Clay had warned me that elderly Mr. Parks didn't always
respond to radio calls (and we had neither cell nor internet on the island), so
we had no choice but to wing it. As we entered the captain's slip of choice,
stern in, I announced that we were churning up mud on approach (low tide,
remember...shallow water!). Thankfully, Mr. Parks breezed into view on his scooter
and hollered an alternate location to which both Clay and I were immediately
receptive!
Tied firmly to pilings at a prime spot on the bulkhead just
outside the bath house by Milton Parks himself, we quickly experienced the joy
of which Peggy spoke! We spent a bit of time accumulating tidbits of local lore
and a synopsis of the recent annual (August) Tangier Homecoming Festival, then paid the flat rate (and
quite inexpensive) cost of overnight docking. Unexpectedly, we received a personal invitation from Mr. Parks
himself for a golf cart tour of the island (an honor, so we are told by
others).
As the sun began to set, Clay and I squeezed in beside Mr. Parks on the golf cart's bench seat and soon created a once-in-a-lifetime memory. We saw all the island had to offer (literally) as Mr. Parks narrated the history, pointed out his daughter's private medical practice, and indicated various family members' homes. With pride in his voice, he spoke of the rec center, the school, churches, and various local businesses (mostly restaurants and gift shops) as we passed each. He answered our curious questions, interrupting conversation periodically with a "Hey, Luv" (to all the gals who passed by), "Hey, George" (to all the menfolk), and "Hey" (the universal substitute for "Hi"). The two main roads of town ran north-south, and between them was a gut with several bridges that connected the roadways. Docks had workboats and smaller skiffs, the principal means of transportation through the guts and waterways that perforated the island. On land, most residents get around the narrow streets by bicycle or golf cart. "Today Tangier Island retains its connection to the water as home port to a large fishing fleet, while its residents also cater to the tourist trade as a source of new economic independence."
Following
our tour, we ate dinner at Larraine's where we chose the highly touted local
selections, soft-shell crab and crab cake for me and a seafood platter for
Clay. The menu offerings were mostly fried (preparation), and those of you that
know me also know I'm not a fried-foods person; but, I knew I wanted to try
both crab preparations while in the Chesapeake area...and I'd been told this
was the place! Larraine's was a hub of activity, crowded with diners as well as
with numerous others popping in for take-out orders or to offer a cheerful
"Hey" to the locals gathered here. Being tired, we opted out of a
short trek down the street for dessert at Spanky's where ice cream is served in
the 1950's-style ice cream parlor.
On a
47-minute walk (which covered the entire circuit) Saturday morning, Clay and I
retraced the route of our Friday evening golf cart tour. Delightful! We
followed the narrow asphalt paths, crossed the bridges, and encountered
islanders out for a morning workout or stroll. Soon, a quick breakfast readied
us for a 9 a.m. departure toward our next destination on the western shore of
Chesapeake Bay, Spring Cove Marina in Solomons, MD, where we arrived shortly
after 2 p.m.
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