Joyce
Bokor greeted us at the New Bern airport upon our return from Ft. Lauderdale
and ferried us to Northwest Creek Marina where we boarded SaSea Sally to unload
and unpack before a home-cooked meal at Joyce's home
nearby. Traveling with only soft-sided duffel bags (as we recommend our guests do), I unloaded my bag to find wet clothing, dampened (nearly soaked) by rains at one airport or another. Thanks, US Air! And we had to pay $25 to check it, getting nothing in return.
nearby. Traveling with only soft-sided duffel bags (as we recommend our guests do), I unloaded my bag to find wet clothing, dampened (nearly soaked) by rains at one airport or another. Thanks, US Air! And we had to pay $25 to check it, getting nothing in return.
Joyce
welcomed us into her home and served a delicious chuck roast dinner with
trimmings, commenting on the pending blooming of her
blooms-after-dark-once-each-three-months plant (we timed perfectly a
night-blooming Cereus party for three). Extremely fragrant and awesomely
beautiful with a seemingly fragile pistil-and-stamen configuration (hey, junior
high biology recall...not bad, Sal!), we had fun positioning our photo shoot
for the best angle while trying, at the same time, to keep our eyes open after
a long travel day. Thanks, Joyce, what a memory! I'm glad the Cereus bloomed
before total fatigue set in!
Following
our five-day absence, we had need of provisioning which Joyce graciously
provided Thursday morning. We beat the storm by minutes, then endured an
afternoon of alerts, rain and, of course, winds. I worked in laundry processing
at the bath house (most expensive yet with $3 wash and $2 dry...dock master
Dawn did say the owner was eccentric), checked out the paperback library, then
delivered a clean load of wearables to the boat between raindrops. Duke's
mixture of edibles made dinner easy with a quick clean-up to end the day.
We
awakened Friday to overcast which cleared rather quickly, enabling us to
traverse the now-familiar route to Joyce's and back on our morning walk.
Arriving back at the dock, we were greeted by a fellow boater who commented that
we looked like a couple of fireflies; that's a good thing to avoid
car-meets-pedestrian accidents. I was in neon green; Clay, neon orange. (Note
to self: remember to wear these colors more often...I kinda like being dubbed a
'firefly'). We moved the boat in relatively calm waters to the downtown New
Bern marina called Galley Stores and Marina. Don't know where the plural came
from, because I experienced only one store, but it was a winner! The Galley
Store housed the marina office as well as a gas station and convenience store,
the likes of which we've not experienced recently. It was COOL! Gift items, a
vast selection of wines, a beer cave, upscale deli
sandwiches/salads/wraps/sides catering to the transient crowd, and an
advertised wine-tasting event this evening (each and every Friday as a matter
of fact) from 5:00-7:00 p.m. Joyce, come on over! Which she did! We sampled the
wines and beers then moseyed over to highly-recommended Persimmons for dining
on their back patio. This waterside restaurant onsite was first recommended by
the dockmaster who I'm guessing moonlights as a city ambassador; he was quite
knowledgeable as well as congenial; and I'm certain he works a crowd expertly.
Persimmons' chef had recently won some notable cook-off which Joyce confirmed
as a competition for the Food Network's Cutthroat Kitchen. The only damper to
an otherwise delightful evening was Clay accidentally stepping on my left
little toe as we departed the wine-and-cheese event which I would later
discover to be broken. Ow-eee!
Custom
Canvas fella arrived Saturday morning to add finishing touches to his
day-before installation of windshield screens which we'd lost in a fierce storm
approaching Charleston (see previous email for the dramatic interp if you
desire; I won't repeat, but the memory is a permanent resident in my brain).
Because Clay was involved with this and with pumping out, I was at liberty to
walk solo, determining my own route this morning. Yay! Independence! Yay! I get
to be me! (I admit, that is something I miss on this Loop...being me, with a
Sally-determined day and not a Captain-determined day!) Nonetheless, I returned
to collect Clay for a bike hike to the farmers' market where we purchased some
fresh produce to back pack home. After lunch, we explored the town on bicycles,
stopping at various retail and consignment shops, at Mitchell's Hardware, and
at an olive oil shop where we purchased a yummy and quite popular Tuscan Herb
organic olive oil. Last stop was a fish market which we seem not to be able to pass
by without purchasing at least something!
Back
to the boat Saturday late afternoon, we welcomed Joyce aboard for a grilled
"surf and turf" (burgers and shrimp skewers) dinner and more
conversation; we seem not to run out of either words or food to share. What a
nice friendship! During dinner, Joyce tried to convince us to stay another few
days so as to enjoy a Sunday night event of which she is fond (I don't recall
specifics); her attempts to demote Oriental fell on the captain's deaf ears
(and, yes, another testament to aging ears!) But Captain Clay had Oriental on
his mind...the Sailing Capital of North Carolina. Described as a
"tranquil, yet friendly inner coastal village offering fishing and sailing
charters," go to www.oriental-nc.com/
and tell Joyce what's not to like about this Looper destination...or at least
Clay's destination.
Knowing
we had a stretch of waterway ahead without opportunity for provisioning, Clay
and I borrowed the courtesy car Sunday morning for a roadtrip to WMT. Now,
we've had courtesy cars of all sorts, including one in Florence, AL (how is it
so EASY to remember the BAD STUFF?) with ants crawling across the dashboard
(see Fall '13 email...yes, we've been aboard THAT long...for a dramatic
interp), but this courtesy car was unique of a different sort...a funky truck.
There was no functioning gear PARK, and the interior rearview mirror was a
dangling pendulum as we drove the 4-5 mile stretch to Wally World. But it was
wheels, and it worked. Back to the Galley Marina to unload, unpack and stow, we
departed without dock help by singling up our lines and forged onward with
storms brewing toward Oriental, NC.
A
three-hour cruise had us arriving at the sheltered port of Oriental
mid-afternoon. A pool, a restaurant, a tiki bar, a resort-type atmosphere with
Adirondak chairs carved with seaside motif...I really wonder what's not to
like? I swam many laps which translated to fewer minutes (you can guess the
pool length), processed for Clay-requested dinner at the onsite restaurant called
the Toucan, then returned to unsettling news of Aunt Shirley's transfer
mid-eve to Springtree Rehab, followed too soon the same later eve by an
ambulance-transfer to University Hospital with a resulting heart attack.
Monday
morning Clay and I walked the pretty waterfront street of Oriental, popped into
a lone retail store featuring boating equipment/attire/paraphernalia, then
wandered up the steps and into The Bean coffee shop for a fresh whole wheat
bagel. When declining the toasting of said bagel, I was told by the welcoming
clerk, "Oh, it won't be very good; it's frozen." I frowned but
purchased and toted home a frozen whole wheat (appeared rye) bagel because I
didn't have the heart to deny this engaging clerk of the #1 restaurant on TripAdvisor;
check out www.thebeanorientalnc.com.
It was actually a darling, unique, happening spot!
We
arrived back at the boat to a call from Uncle Woody that Shirley "isn't
going to make it." With news such as this, Clay and I spent much of the
remaining morning investigating flights and planning our return trip to Ft.
Lauderdale (FLL). Overwhelmingly saddened, I texted Barb, "My presence is
here (boat), but my heart is there (FLL). The S3 is unusually quiet
today." The captain made the call to forge onward in hopes of docking in
the waters around Norfolk, VA, the next port with any real opportunity for
travel connections. With storms, and thus rather fierce winds, in the New Bern
area urging us north, we cruised at a steady pace and reached Dowry Creek
Marina, Belhaven, NC early eve. Clay chatted poolside with the locals while I
swam repeated lengths of this delightful marina. And, of course during the day,
we received periodic updates on Shirley's condition.
Tuesday
morning I found opportunity to pound the pavement while Clay de-bugged the deck
and fly bridge; this was our first real encounter with bugs that plague us in
the Midwest...a touch of home we can well do without! We departed late morn,
arriving some six hours later at Southshore Landing (anchorage) on the
Alligator River; we were putting in longer travel days in hopes of reaching our
Norfolk-area marina sooner than later. This day's cruise was an unusual one in
that we experienced widest of wide and narrowest of narrow waterways and were
twice buzzed by some stealth-like military aircraft that were either: a)
playing with us; or b) having fun at the expense of our ears (and nerves) while
on routine practice runs. LOUD with a capital L-O-U-D!
Successfully
anchored, Clay went about installing new door screens and breeze boosters
(tents for hatches) to make our sleep hours cool. Well done, Captain Clay! Your
first mate appreciates your efforts! On the other hand, you knew she'd be gone
(or at least ticked) unless you made those efforts!
Unfortunately,
we got the call around 10:30 p.m., advising us of Shirley's death.
Up
early Wednesday, we had an easy anchor lift and day cruise to Midway Motel and
Marina in Coinjock, NC, our last North Carolina stop before crossing into
Virginia. Coinjock is highlighted in much of the Looper literature, and I've
yet to figure out why...maybe it's the unique name...and only the unique name.
The name is unique! During these daylight hours, we encountered a myriad of
problems/inconveniences: my Nordic Track skiier pulley (arms) developed a
glitch which put me to the test of reconfiguring the mechanism (check); Clay's
beer can validated my warning that the back third of the frig freezes items
(put beer in defrost mode on countertop; check); the fly bridge data display
unit went blank (not good! after troubleshooting thru plans a, b, and
c...reboot; check); and auto pilot, which was temperamental at best yesterday,
behaved admirably today. With daylight hours remaining, Clay buckled down at
the computer to fine-tune our travel plans; to detail a comprehensive list of
routine maintenance tasks for the marina folks; and to play catch-up with
correspondence and research. I did a laundry load and attempted to swim the
serious-swimmer-unfriendly pool which I quickly aborted. Oh well, I got a good
hydrotherapy session for my body's joint and muscle fibers. I continue to be
amazed at my ability to look on the bright side of things (see aforementioned
'oh well' on not getting to seriously swim); for a dot-i-cross-t person (anal,
according to sis-in-law Cindy), this Great Loop experience has relaxed my
intensity to a serious degree. I have truly adopted the "There's always a
Plan B, or C, or D..." attitude...out of necessity!
We
departed Coinjock Thursday morning and made slow, steady progress toward
Chesapeake, VA where Clay had decided to dock the SaSea Sally for our month's
absence upcoming. We arrived early afternoon, a shorter cruising day than I'd
anticipated, which gave us plenty of time to settle in, to acquaint ourselves
with this boat yard marina, to check out nearby retail and outskirts-of-Norfolk
amenities, and to begin packing and preparing for nearly a full month's
absence. Because of the rather remote nature of this location, Clay (I swear
he'd make a good travel agent!) employed his thinking-outside-the-box
capabilities to mastermind an effective, efficient and cost-effective plan for
the time of our absence, pre-, post-, and during. Amazing all the details one
has to consider when boating and without alternate means of transportation
other than feet/bicycle.
We
spent a rainy Friday and a rainy Saturday in a relaxed mode of prepping for
departure. We whittled down frig contents; made acquaintance with a couple from
Kona, HI (Pelikana) who had Mizzou connections; repositioned the boat in a
spritzing drizzle from the face dock along the waterway to the shed, refueling
and pumping out in the process; connected with Enterprise for a rental car for
our transportation to Richmond, Va, from which we were flying on Sunday; and
finally dined late Saturday eve with our new friends after a WMT run for their
provisioning. I experienced another first on Saturday in the AYB laundryroom
(hint: we're talking colored water again!); as I transferred our white sheet
set from washer to dryer, I noticed they were no longer white, but a splotchy
brown. Thank goodness the pre-wash colored items far outnumbered the whites, so
the damage was minimal. Clay diagnosed the discoloration from backflushing the
marina's well water system. I must applaud AYB for their integrity in promising
to replace the damaged items; my attempt with Oxi-Clean on the smaller items
was unsuccessful.
Sunday,
we were up early and off for our Richmond-to-Ft. Lauderdale flight on
Southwest. We will be in Ft. Lauderdale thru early afternoon on August 12th at
which time we will fly home for a two-week visit with family and friends in
Missouri.
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