Savannah, GA June 3-10, 2014

June 3-10, 2014

Marsh grass along Redbird Creek

There must be land where those trees along Redbird Creek are?

Our destination upon 10:30 a.m. departure from Darien, GA on Tuesday, June 3rd, was Savannah with an overnight anchorage planned at Redbird Creek. We arrived at mile marker 606.8, anchored shortly before 5 p.m., then grilled burgers and asparagus. We finished the evening doing computer work, with Clay focused on planning and navigation while I paid bills.

Helicopter flying over Redbird Creek

I crawled into bed, intent on reading a new Baldacci book, but opted for lights-out instead. I think my lights-out was interpreted as a signal for night maneuvers to commence! It took me no time to realize our anchorage was in close proximity to some sort of military installation(s) with practice flights well underway; Clay later identified Ft. Stewart and Hunter Army Airfield nearby.

Covering up the Nordic Track

Because we were anchored out overnight, Wednesday morning was Nordic Track time. The current must have established our boat's direction because the winds were quite whippy around me...delightful! I do believe it's more work setting up and breaking down the equipment than actually skiing through the thirty-minute workout (the waterproof cover complete with clasps and yards of heavy-duty velcro is quite labor intensive!) As I watched the birds flying overhead and dive bombing for fish in the waters nearby, I realized they were probably working far harder than I; theirs was for survival. Well, I guess mine was, too! 

Redbird Creek anchorage south of Savannah

Clay's hair was getting rather shaggy, and I was encouraging him to let it grow a few inches for a ponytail. He opted otherwise, so we set up Sally's Beauty Salon on the swim platform, and he was quickly shorn. Because I had sat in on 'Brandy Haircutting 101' on our spring trip home to LAMO, I was now educated in the finer points of cutting hair for this second experience of mine. He looks pretty darn good--or at least, a whole lot better! 

The Westgate's home under construction

As we departed this anchorage at Redbird Creek late morning, Clay gave an anchor assist that over-taxed the gypsy and over-retracted the anchor and chain (layman's terms here). This rendered the winch non-functioning; we hoped it would be an easy fix, maybe something as easy as a blown circuit. Or not. (Hint: Remember Murphy is along for the ride. Thankful that the Lord is also along.)

Gemini at Steve Westgate's dock w/SaSea Sally rafted alongside

Three hours later the SaSea Sally pulled into Turner Creek and rafted to Steve and Beth Westgate's 'Gemini,' docked in the residential neighborhood of Wilmington Island, Georgia. Steve and Beth have graciously made this private docking available to Loopers since having completed their Great Loop experience some years ago. We were grateful, not only for the dockage, but for the availability of both water and electric; it's HOT in Georgia (and humid)! Steve met us and assisted in tying to 'Gemini' then went back to his task of overseeing the construction of their new home. 

Clay showing off his bleeding and mashed fingers

First and foremost on Clay's mind was anchor repair. Not the easy fix (circuit breaker) we'd hoped! So, armed with channel grips and a can-do attitude, Clay approached the bow and pulpit, formulating a plan as he eyed the most-probable cause, the gypsy (two part wheel with 'tread' that matches the chain links and thus grabs each link as the gypsy turns, to release and to retract the anchor).  Anyone guessing what might happen next?  

Storm clouds over Turner's Creek off Wilmington Island

Clay loosened the gypsy (chain gripper) without the lock set (because we couldn't set the lock with a non-functioning winch). Instantaneously, the anchor dropped into 30+' of water followed by the runaway chain passing through the locking mechanism. Reacting, Clay grabbed the chain near the locking mechanism to stop it. At the same time, I yelled, "Don't grab it!" which hopefully lessened the injury to his left hand. He then thrust the head of the channel grips into the lock which abruptly stopped the chain's movement.  That brought the focus back to the injured left hand. No stitches, no broken bones, but we did go to an urgent care clinic fairly close by to have his hand x-rayed and to get antibiotics and a tetanus shot. Welcome to Savannah, Georgia!

Our tentative plans were to dock at Steve's through the weekend during which time we'd have screens made and installed on the port and starboard doors. During our wait time, we had planned to use the bus system to explore downtown Savannah and Tybee Island until the weather forecast indicated we'd be foolish (wet) to do so. Thus, we rented an Enterprise car for a three-day weekend to be able to see Savannah. Bikes and feet are good, but this land mass was far too big to explore even a small chunk of it in those modes. 

Since Friday would be our rental car start day, we explored the area within walking distance on Thursday. We were fortunate to have retail nearby: Kroger and Publix grocery stores, CVS, Walgreens, ACE Hardware and a few dining spots, specialty shops, and banks. Actually, I did most of the exploring solo on Thursday; Clay laid low, recuperating from his 'brush with losing fingers' episode. Filling Clay's antibiotic prescription was the motivation for my early morning trek to a nearby pharmacy, having four options; that task got me out and about.

One of the beautiful homes in Savannah

Our Enterprise rental car arrived late morning on Friday at which time we set our sights on the historic downtown district of Savannah, ate at Panera, then promptly lost our parked rental 2014 red VW Beetle. I had prompted Clay some three or four blocks after parking to remember where we parked; I never do. In this case, neither did he. We both remembered the prompting intersection but were lost beyond that...and the meter maid was due in five minutes. While tour trolleys, horse-drawn carriages, bike carts and bicycle slow-tours passed us by, we frantically searched for said red bug. Found it (kudos to Clay) and without parking ticket. High five on that! 

Clouds over Turner's Creek

With no real plans for the day and the lost-car episode recent history, we just kinda wandered the rest of the day, motoring to Tybee Island for a look-see then returning to the SaSea Sally feeling somewhat unsettled and dissatisfied. We regrouped, then traveled a quick five minutes by car for dinner at the Flying Fish where locals gathered in a casual atmosphere to eat basket dinners. We were thankful to have chosen inside dining when, as we finished, a storm to beat any storm I've experienced in quite some time hit. The torrential downpour was not as notable as were the vividly intense lightning bolts and ear-splitting claps of thunder. That was not to be the first storm of this type we'd experience in Savannah!

One of the many squares in Savannah's Historic District

Think this is were we lost our car?

Saturday was much more enjoyable with both Clay and me on the 'same page' as to the day's design. Having visited the Savannah Visitors Center shortly after losing our bug (of the VW variety), we had an accumulation of literature, brochures and words of advice from the locals as to where to go, what to see and do, and how to go about doing it! We chose the on-and-off Old Savannah Tours white trolley for a 1.5-hour overall tour of downtown Savannah. Wish we'd had this perspective on the city on Friday; I think we'd have been able to find our lost car quickly. Tour guide Kathleen pointed out the 22 beautifully manicured squares nested in the historic district, a component part of Oglethorpe's master design of the city. She spoke of the history of homes, cathedrals, parks, notable restaurants, and the old Colonial Park Cemetery as we passed each. What a lot of history to absorb as well as architecture and landscaping to admire in this city.

The conclusion of a wedding

 The inside of the Church

Crystal Beer Palace's beer taps!!!

Sally tasting beer???

We disembarked at our start point, ready for lunch and a quiet time to absorb all we'd seen. We tasted beer samples while we ate a really late lunch at the Crystal Beer Parlor, then walked to the Cathedral of St. John where we encountered two stretch limos parked outside the entrance. Realizing a wedding might disrupt our tour of the cathedral's interior (or rather our touring might disrupt the wedding) we awaited the high sign from a host before we entered. It was obvious that this wedding/touring conflict was a common occurrence because all was well-controlled.

Fun on a hot day in Savannah

Forrest Gump with a box of chocolates???

From the Cathedral, we walked past the Owens Thomas House which had been highly recommended to tour. We opted out after seeing the tour price per person...also noting the quickly accumulating storm clouds, the lateness of the day and wanting to wander through City Market on our way to retrieve our car. Got wet but not soaked!

Civil War soldier (actor) telling his story

Day well spent, we were 'home' in time to cheer for California Chrome in the Belmont which was punctuated by more piercing storms guaranteed to stimulate even the most failing of auditory and visual senses! My but these storms are loud and vivid! Drama! Sad that CA Chrome lost...guess we just weren't yelling loud enough!

Peddle while you tour Savannah

I had earlier marveled at the depth of these residential lots bordering Turner Creek and had laughed in seeing residents using golf carts to travel from their homes to their docks. Not to be outdone, our screen folks arrived Sunday morning in their van at water's edge to access our boat, well behind Steve's home under construction. I giggled as I departed on foot for church, having a slim five-minute window to arrive on time (which I did). Because it was nearby, the Wilmington Island Presbyterian Church Sunday morning service was on my agenda while Clay worked with the screen door folks. 

Hist Dist Cert of Appropriateness Posting

Another late-afternoon storm which Clay predicted to hit south of us arrived 'spot on' not ten minutes following his prediction. Again, a piercing storm which had me cringing with each lightning bolt and thunder clap. Despite the storm, we made an errand run to Wal-Mart which was timed to meet Steve, Beth and four-year-old granddaughter Olivia at the Flying Fish for dinner.

 Our harbor host Steve Westgate, wife Beth and granddaughter Olivia

Monday was to be our last day at Turner Creek, so much of the day was spent regrouping in anticipation of Tuesday's departure toward Hilton Head, SC. We returned the Enterprise rental after a quick stop at both Staples and Target. With no electricity available onboard today, we'd opened the boat for ventilation then sat lifelessly staring at each other following lunch. It didn't take long to realize I didn't want to spend the afternoon with zero energy staring at Clay; I imagine he felt likewise. But I was first to suggest that running the generator for air conditioning during the hot afternoon hours would be to our advantage. (That wasn't even a 393...more like a 2.0 moment). I even offered to foot the bill which Peggy and Hans (Aqua Vitae) suggested to be the cost of 1/3 gallon diesel per hour (roughly $1.20/hr based on last refueling). 

Avec cooler interior temps, we both perked up and tackled routine housekeeping and office chores, then ended the day with grilled salmon, pasta salad, fresh corn on the cob (well, as fresh as was available at Publix), and steamed cauliflower with cheese. We do eat well. The chef onboard is a keeper!

US Coast Guard helicopter dropping a person to a boat's deck

Tuesday's departure had Clay captaining from above while I completed a computer task below. Thirty minutes post launch Captain Clay spied a large body of water looming in the distance that wasn't supposed to be there (well, it was, so maybe it was we who weren't supposed to be there). Captain SOS'd  the first mate (me) for assistance with navigation. Shortly thereafter we determined we were going south instead of the intended north, and the large body of water approaching was Wassaw Sound. So we did a 180 and went back the direction from which we came.  After our 180 degree turn we encountered a US Coast Guard helicopter practicing a maneuver to pick-up someone from the deck of a moving  boat.

Steve had marked our navigational charts with indication of shallow waters and thus depth concerns because we were traveling at low tide. Thankful for Steve's input we were! As we left the north side of the Savannah River, in an area that Steve pointed out, we found one of those "shallow shoals" for which the Georgia Intracoastal Waterway is famous.  When the depth finder noted 1.9' (we draw 4'), and we were leaving little tufts of dirty water in our wake, it became a hold-your-breath moment...at least for me. The winds, current, and silt layer on the bottom kept us going. Hooray! Neither Clay nor I was anxious to spent time waiting for high tide to release us from this location!

Summer vacation activities were underway.

Arriving mid-afternoon at Palmetto Bay Marina on Hilton Head Island, we found ourselves asking, "Where's the upscale we thought Hilton Head to be?" We had anticipated some degree of elegance and grandeur based on hearsay. We were thus disapointed with the rough dock boards, the dock fingers in disrepair, and in general, a somewhat rundown aura. Emphasizing our 'take' on this location was a pumpout, first on our agenda, which took well over an hour to complete (should take 15-20 minutes).  We were nonetheless thankful to have it done. Dock master Shawn cited a poorly-taped split in the hose as the culprit; he and I agreed a replacement hose would be quite cost effective! 

Ferry from Hilton Head to Daufunskie Island

Clay did a beautiful job of docking stern in against a stiff wind and rapid current. Tied up by late afternoon we took note of the activity nearby where three dock hands worked to secure the finger to which we were tied. With a massive weight of 20+ tons, SaSea Sally required a finger hinge in good repair! Our boat weight coupled with the wind and current was threatening to rip the finger loose. Good job, guys...and necessary!

Because we were both tired from the day's exposure to the elements, we worked together on dinner of skewered grilled shrimp, summer squash slices, pasta salad and succotash. Our orientation to the marina--and to Hilton Head--was simply as far as the check-in location. Exploration will have to wait until tomorrow.