Beaufort, SC June 13-22, 2014

June 13-22, 2014

Hi All from Lady's Island Marina in Beaufort, South Carolina!

Parris Island "We Make Marines"

Parris Island Marine Base

The trip from Hilton Head to Beaufort took us though some beautiful developments with marinas and beautiful waterfront homes. We then crossed the wide Port Royal Sound, then took the AICW northwest, by Parris Island Marine Corps base, by the town of Port Royal to Beaufort SC.  Parris Island Marine Corps base is located on the north side of Port Royal Sound.

The Fillin' Station

Steve and Steve watching the girls

Sailboat Steve Sagle (Virginia Lee) greeted us by radio (channel 16) as we picked our way through the menagerie of boats tied to mooring balls and anchored in Factory Creek and arrived at Lady's Island Marina which is about 1/4 mile off the AICW around 3 p.m. on Friday, the 13th.             Steve

directed us to the east end T-dock where we snuggled into position and tied off for a period of time TBD. Steve's first greeting was to announce the Friday dinner special, a $10 ribeye steak dinner, at the Fillin' Station (restaurant/bar) not 100 yards from the street entrance to the marina. All welcome and highly-popular, the restaurant beckoned. We joined a group of ten and entered thru the front door on

a companion's push (yes, Jules, the door was unappealing/nasty, but it was just needing paint and not covered with food residue) around 5 p.m. to beat the rapidly accumulating multitude of drinkers and diners. The restaurant obviously planned to make profit off of the drinking because $10 would barely cover the cost of the steak, baked potato and corn alone. And, the three-hour wait for our dinners to be served (yep, they arrived straight up 8:00 p.m.) allowed plenty of drinking time. (So glad I stuck to my self-imposed limit; others I'm sure didn't). The Fillin' Station was THE spot for locals to gather, with one lone pool table, a large deck overlooking Factory Creek, karaoke (at least on Friday nights), and food specials three nights per week, well known to the marina residents!

The meal, which we all voraciously consumed, was really quite well-cooked, tasty and a large, thick bone-in cut for the $10 price! It just took next-to forever for us to get our meals! It was generally agreed that the vacationers have now invaded the area, forcing the long wait time; thus, the marina folks won't be regularly attending these functions until Fall. (Notice how quickly Clay and I were absorbed into 'resident' status here at Lady's Island Marina!)

Beaufort High School w/pool

Our welcome packet itemized various retail establishments nearby as well as the Beaufort municipal indoor swimming pool where swim lessons were given, swim teams practiced, water aerobics classes were conducted, and lap swim was available continuously during operating hours. Bingo! Early morning Saturday I outlined my day to include lap swimming and a haircut at Guys 'n Dolls. Believe it or not, my hair had grown sufficiently in the six weeks since the Melbourne 'surprise, gotcha' cut to need at least shaping. Thus, off I went for a half-hour swim at the senior price of $3, then a haircut by Natalie (highly recommended by marina gals) where I chose again the Melbourne cut (probably my last but it's SO easy!).

Clay and I lunched at the boat, then biked to the Beaufort historic downtown, crossing the Beaufort River bridge with wait time near the midpoint where the swinging bridge halted our progress. We biked through the park along the riverfront, then secured our bikes and walked along Bay Street, the main street of town. We inquired details of carriage tours, reviewed menus of various restaurants and wine bars, and poked around a few shops, retreating at length into a few shop interiors when a mid-afternoon storm appeared. Rain passed, and we biked back to the boat for dinner.

Having established what I hope soon to be a routine by attending church on Wilmington Island the previous Sunday, Clay and I dressed for a moderately long bike ride to Sea Island Presbyterian Church and sat coincidentally in front of the parents of last week's minister. Small world. That acquaintance broke the ice quickly for a hearty welcome from this Sunday's congregation. A quick stop post-service by the boat to change clothes (I'd worn a dress which isn't the easiest of attire to bike in!), we continued across the bridge to lunch at Blackstone's where Clay dined on a hearty breakfast of eggs, grits, hash browns and toast while I enjoyed luncheon fare. We both consumed ample calories to support our afternoon bike ride thru the historic neighborhoods, marveling at the huge, stately trees (which seem to command heightened respect) and equally regal homes.

Factory Creek looking toward Beaufort

In a small pocket park, we sat under a beautiful tree spreading its majestic branches as shade protection when son John called with Happy Fathers Day wishes for Clay. Shade protection, yes; storm protection, hmmmm, not so much. An abrupt rumble of thunder nearby grabbed our attention, and we quickly ended the conversation with, "Gotta dash and beat the storm." And dash we did. Back across the bridge in record time, we abandoned our bikes under the breezeway cover of the marina office complex and made our way to the boat before the rain could get us. It rained all around us, but never right on us. Sunday ended with a marina-hosted Fathers Day carry-in which was a last minute surprise to us. Clay, not one to miss a party, artfully arranged a tray of cheese, crackers and grapes, while I rested a bit...to join them later. Food was terrific; company, delightful; and atmosphere, welcoming and festive.

We settled into a routine of sorts at Lady's Island Marina with a week's stay on the horizon. Clay had secured the services of Adam, the canvas man, to make screens for the two remaining doors which are to be completed and installed by Friday. Problems and projects usually determine our lengths of stay, and this was no exception. Monday morning was consumed with office projects, then I delightfully jumped aboard my bike and pedaled to the pool for some laps. A bargain for $3 which combines exercise, total body submersion (showers are nice, but they're not baths), and fun. I plan to put in as much lap time over the week as possible.

Mid-afternoon we borrowed Gloria's stick-shift Geo and motored to a computer fix-it shop called Gadget ResQ where I ditched Clay for a confab with powers-that-be while I headed on to WMT for provisions. We returned to the marina to find our buddies boarding their dinghy and heading to the dink bar for a swim, joining our other buddies there. Clay so hates to miss a party, but we had groceries and supplies to unload; too, our dinghy launching process was hampered by the close proximity of the sailboat docked at our stern. Launching would require a lot of shenanigans and time, and we'd probably miss the party!

Grill queen!

What a spread!!!

Marina at high tide.

Tuesday proved to be a routine day of sorts. Clay spent most of the day cleaning on the boat (interior) while I did some office work/bill paying, swam laps at the pool, biked to the local Grayco Hardware, then returned to put in some reading time on the fly bridge before Clay and I joined forces for a major grill-fest on the stern so as to have leftovers stashed when the need arises. Good plan! Good day!

Marina at low tide--7 ft lower.

Wednesday was a repeat Tuesday through mid-afternoon when Clay picked me up in Sailboat Steve's (Virginia Lee) Ohio-license-plated truck for a provisioning run to Food Lion. Returning to stow our purchases, we were reminded that Wednesdays at the Fillin' Station offered the $4 dinner special of a grilled hot dog and hamburger, potato salad, and baked beans. So, not to be left out, off we went to join the marina group of 10-12 on the deck to drink our way through the wait time (a logical 45 minutes this night) when dinner would finally be served. Tonight's perk was my bringing home a dog and potato salad for Clay's Thursday lunch.

Steve helping repair the side door

The door repair is almost complete

Clay had earlier noted that SaSea's starboard door had a glitch in its sliding mechanism, cause to be determined once disassembled. So, Thursday morning he teamed up with Sailboat Steve whose reputation preceded him as being able to fix anything. Clay is pretty handy himself, but his skills were no match for our new friend, an auto body and mechanics vocational teacher of 20+ years. Theirs became an all-day project which ended with a flawlessly-gliding starboard door and two very tired fellas. Job well done, guys! Midday I played go-fer for them, biking to the Grayco Building Center for parts by way of the pool where I put in some lap time and watched the start of the noon water aerobics class.

As dinner time approached, Clay geared up for a trek across the parking lot for the Fillin' Station's Thursday special which was two deep-fat-fried pork chops, scalloped potatoes and green beans ($5). It was my plan to soon join Clay, Steve, Nancy and her friend Donna, but I was awestruck by the chaos in SaSea's interior. The two fellas in project mode had certainly wreak havoc of a magnitude that this little lady could not ignore. Besides, deep-fried anything has no appeal; and a little 'space' (and separation) sounded mighty nice. I chose to de-clutter and play cheerleader to sister Susan whose shoulder and biceps tendon aren't healing to her expectations. Good decision on all counts!

Beaufort home

Friday dawned with our usual and customary morning walk, with Clay's pace compromised by Thursday's door project. He brought new meaning to the term 'slow' today! But upon return, he geared up to clean those boat components I'd left undone Thurday night. I headed to the pool mid-morning, contributing another $3 to the City's coffer and completing my six-day swim marathon (ya never know when another pool will present itself).

Peoples Bank clock

Having been now a week at Lady's Island Marina, we'd collected a sizable stash of dirty laundry which needed doing. As I arrived at the laundry room with my laundry basket balanced on my head (exhibiting extreme balance and dexterity, no doubt), I told fellow laundress Barb (Melinda K) that Clay refuses to buy a wheelie cart until he finds the RIGHT one. So I just show him plan b. I probably resemble the Egyptian women carrying urns on their heads, or African or Indian women with their woven baskets. It works. I haven't progressed to hands-free yet, but given enough time...well... Too, this thing about social acceptability (with a basket on your head), not sure that it matters in the boating world all that much!

Downtown Beaufort

With laundry done and time on my hands, Clay alerted me to the nav laptop computer ready for pick-up at Gadget ResQ. Having only my bicycle for distance, I prepped accordingly with backpack, sunscreen, and a defensive 'driving' attitude. Just this morning, Marina Manager Steve Stanforth informed us of transient boater Terry (Hoy) having been hit while biking yesterday afternoon...now hospitalized and undiagnosed. So I vowed to exercise greater-than-normal caution and off I went, across the Beaufort River Bridge and out Bsns Hwy 21. I logged 17.5 minutes and arrived with skin glistening to retrieve Clay's nav computer. (I understand that we women don't 'sweat,' we glisten; I've been lots of glistening in South Carolina and parts south!) Reversing direction, I headed toward Lady's Island Marina and encountered a whole lot of car traffic as I approached the bridge; obviously, lots of folks were headed my direction.

Low clearance!!!

I parked my bike in the marina breezeway and poked my head into the marina office for a cool down (great ac here) only to find a gathering of guys discussing what guys discuss. They welcomed me with a hearty, "Hey, Sal" and continued their conversation. Among the topics was an update on hospitalized Terry which revealed no new news. Another topic was tonight's Fillin' Station's $10 ribeye dinner and potential takers. Count Clay and me in (we're willing to risk the wait time, especially for the price and my not having to cook)...with the only other taker being Terry's wife Donna (Meridian) who wanted to tag along.

Beaufort home

Donna had actually taken the initiative to lead the pack, so Clay and I joined her (called for a description to recognize her) a brief time later on the Fillin' Station deck (thankfully for the diners, a much smaller crowd) to find we KNOW Donna. Oh my! Gives a somewhat different perspective on her injured husband (and their predicament) when we know them. (Please note: I'm using the term 'know' loosely. 'Acquaintance' is probably a better description of the relationship as we'd all met during the Fall 2013 Great Loop Rendezvous at Joe Wheeler State Lodge in Rogersville, AL.) But all of us Loopers are in the same boat (pardon the pun) and can relate to predicaments! In Terry's case, a possible broken back doesn't bode well for near term continuation of their trip.

Another Beaufort home

Ya gotta admire Donna! She went solo to the Fillin' Station knowing no one, joined two local couples and continued her evening as normally as possible. Offers to help were free-flowing, with the two couples planning on a quick stop at the hospital to check on patient Terry when they left the restaurant. Life is good!

Saturday morning found Clay and me in wait mode, awaiting the arrival of son John and his girlfriend Kristen who had flown Friday evening to Charleston for a week's vacation in the Charleston/Savannah/Hilton Head area. They certainly have a treat ahead! Their Saturday activities were to begin following a late night drive to Beaufort for an overnight here, then breakfast with us before they headed south to Savannah by way of Hilton Head for a quick look/see. 

'Wait mode' referenced above really doesn't exist on a boat because there's always something to occupy our time. We'd completed our morning walk, detouring to check out the Beaufort Bakery Cafe (BBC) which came highly recommended as a breakfast spot to rival those in Paris (yes, France, not Missouri). We'd also gotten an update from Donna confirming Terry's L1 (back) compression fracture and speculating potentials of what-comes-next for them. We also began preliminaries for departure as our plans were to head north after breakfast with John and Kristen.

Well, breakfast became lunch when we arrived at BBC to find the breakfast menu had ended at 11:00 when the lunch menu began. And, a full work week with a late Friday flight for the two travelers made sleeping far more important than for which Saturday meal John and Kristen joined us. Worked all the way around! Shortly after lunch and a quick run to Publix, we shooed them out the door with a few recommendations on what to see and do in downtown Beaufort before they headed south. 

Ladys Island Marina

Marina manager Steve Stanforth

As we regrouped after the kids' departure and continued our preparation to head north, we took note of the weather which included an extreme heat advisory for the area with a predicted heat index in excess of 105. Our Saturday night plans were to anchor out or to tie to a dock with no water or electric; Clay made comment that the generator (ac) would have trouble keeping up with that heat. Plans are made to change. And, there's always a Plan B as we say over and over. So we stayed another night with our friends at Lady's Island Marina.

Sunday was d-day (departure) with an earlier-than-normal walk through the now familiar neighborhood, passing by Beaufort High School and the City Pool, then circling by way of Meridian Avenue (the shortcut from the Beaufort River Bridge to Port Royal), to pass by the corner bank and the Fillin' Station to end up back at 'home.' Amazing how many 'homes' we've had over the past almost ten months, how many friends and acquaintances we've made, how many experiences we've had and how well we've handled all of our Plan B's. We're off for a destination five miles south of Charleston at 9:20 a.m., with many of our new-found friends crowding the dock with their morning coffee to send us on our way.

We look forward to a Tuesday rendezvous with John and Kristen in Charleston and the fun we will have there!