As
we began our travels on the Rideau Canal this Wednesday morning, I perused the
various information booklets and travel guides we had acquired at the Visitors
Center in Ottawa. I soon realized that the Boating Safely Ontario Waterways,
a publication of Parcs Canada, would become my ‘can’t live without it’ partner
during the upcoming 125.6 miles to the Kingston LaSalle Causeway Bridge. The
foldout for the Rideau Canal itemized 49 locks, numerous swing and fixed
bridges, and various other points of concern and interest (wharfs, bays, lakes
and parks). I quickly check-marked “Ottawa Locks #1-8, in flight” as we’d
traversed those a few days prior (I still have vivid memory of that
encounter!); I also check-marked the Plaza fixed bridge over which we’d walked
numerous times during our stay in Ottawa and under which we’d passed
post-flight locks. I continued this practice of check-marking as we traveled;
there were SO many bridges and locks that it seemed to be the only way to keep
them straight.
Following
behind our companion boat Bright Angel, we passed under seven bridges,
locked through at Hartwells Locks #9-10 (in flight), another bridge, Hogs Back
Locks #11-12 (in flight), through a swing bridge and under two fixed bridges,
then through Black Rapids Lock #13, traveling a total of 9.3 miles. Captain
Byron aboard Bright Angel, veered starboard and tied to the lock station
dock just past Black Rapids. Uh-oh, trouble. His starboard engine was
overheating, so he chose to shut down at this location for the night and
troubleshoot. Suits us! All four of us (well, maybe not Clay as he can sleep
thru anything) had suffered through an almost-sleepless night the previous
night with jack hammers echoing in our ears from daytime construction downtown
Ottawa. And, being AGLCA friends, two heads are better than one with this
troubleshooting stuff! We soon witnessed Byron in the water clearing weed and
muck from the raw water intake, confirmation that this aqua vegetation would be
a concern along the Rideau.
Docktails
brought out fellow ‘campers’ to exchange boat information and boat stories. We
met Dan and Liz who were quite congenial and invaluable resources for Ontario
waterways. We hit the sack following a yummy grilled burgers and asparagus meal
aboard. More travels to follow tomorrow.
Armed
with good info for future boating Clay had acquired from Dan, we departed Black
Rapids Lock mid-morn Thursday to arrive at Burritts Rapids Lock #17 at mile
39.8 four locks, five bridges, two wharfs, four parks and one side channel
later. We don’t seem to be traveling many miles, but after four or five locks
in a day, we’re pooped and ready to call it quits. We’d done all four locks
with Bright Angel and another boat I’d nicknamed ‘the Frenchies.’ I was
at the bow so couldn’t read their boat’s name, but Clay kept referencing the
Frenchies as we completed each lock. At Clay’s suggestion, I had prepared my
crockpot balsamic chicken recipe which had been simmering since early
afternoon. But Clay spied a roadside restaurant appropriately called Lock 17
Bistro which had word-of-mouth recommendation for their awesome pizza. Of
course, with dinner ready but for serving, I wasn’t too happy about the change
of plans (especially since the chicken breasts had a history, and I didn’t want
to waste any of the $20.04 per kg cost). But the Captain ‘is always right,’ so
I stowed the balsamic chicken for future and up the hill we climbed for supper.
P.S. It WAS awfully good pizza!
A
10 a.m. departure on Friday, it was on this day that we parted company with Bright
Angel. Safe travels, Byron and Cynthia, until we meet again! Three bridges
and six locks later we curled around the last Merrickville Lock #23 to the lock
station dock for an afternoon of exploration and an overnight of what we hoped
to be restful sleep. The three Merrickville locks are detached which ‘will slow
your progress here, and that’s actually a very good thing, since Merrickville
is a truly charming town. The locals refer to it as “the Jewel of the Rideau”
and it has won the titles of Ontario’s Most Beautiful Village and the
Communities In Bloom award for Canada’s Most Beautiful Village. The Jewel of
the Rideau is an appropriate name because of the efforts of the locals to
restore and maintain the dozens of historic homes and commercial buildings.’ We
poked around town, walking the main street as well as numerous of the
surrounding side streets which were lined with antique and craft shops, book
stores, gift shops, a bakery, and a number of women’s clothiers and leather
shops. We waved a cheery hello to some of our newly-made Canadian friends from
the prior evening at Burritts Rapids who had elected to spend the weekend here.
Merrickville must be a popular weekend destination!
We
returned to the boat where we were soon appreciative of the power available to
us for air conditioning. My journal notes say, “Sunny and warm. Nice breeze and
flies.” I took note of a red rash appearing on my body and wondered the trigger
and pondered the cure. Hmmm, medical problems beyond our realm of expertise
aren’t welcome in Canada where we are far from our good Dr. Pitney! Note: I
endured the rash another twenty-four hours, then it disappeared as quickly as
it had appeared.
Saturday’s
destination was Victoria Park Campground and Marina some 14.2 miles, five
locks, five bridges, and two parks away. I called the telephone number given
for Victoria Park and was cheerfully greeted by a male voice who gave us an
advance welcome, touting the friendliness of the staff there. If he was
representative, ya got that right! We motored along, handling easily the locks
we encountered. As we exited the second of the Old Slys (flight) Locks #26-27,
we caught the distinct sound of bagpipes nearby (a festival we were later
told). On through the Smiths Falls Combined Lock #29A (which replaced the old
locks 28-30), we turned port to the rickety-appearing campground docks. I guess
they were secure enough with smaller-than-usual cleats (we just doubled up the
number as we wanted to be secure!). The Victoria Park Campground was
municipally operated, well managed, and well stocked with town and regional
information. Smiths Falls marks the halfway position on the voyage between
Ottawa and Kingston and is also the largest community between the two cities.
There are grocery stores, including Warring’s Independent Grocer and Wal-Mart,
both of which we made a point to visit for re-provisioning.
Clay
wanted a ‘Saturday night on the town’ and insisted on dinner out. “When oh when
will we eat that balsamic chicken?” I asked. But, I simply and quietly packaged
portions for freezing, thankful for the meals I now have in reserve and for the
freezer space to house them! You’ve heard the saying, “Sometimes my greatest
achievement in a day is keeping my mouth shut!” Back to the dinner out topic…
Active Captain is a terrific resource to which Clay turns frequently for
everything from docking and marina info to dining info so he happily researched
restaurants while I cycled a laundry load in the one washer, one dryer
available in the small back room of the campground office. It seemed there was
a sign-up dry erase board for washer-dryer use; but there were no names listed,
and a young child was happily doodling on the board’s surface so I didn’t feel
I was particularly intruding on anyone’s use of the machines. Plus, I wanted my
laundry done! Opportunity knocks!
Clay
and I were again appreciative for the power at this marina as it was hot with
little breeze. We also had a water source so planned to take advantage of it to
top off our water tank prior to departure tomorrow. In the meantime we would
shower in the comforts of home and prep for dining out. A restaurant called My
Place seemed to be Active-Captain-popular and highly touted by Loopers, so we
arrived there to find the chef(?) standing outside the restaurant smoking a
cigarette (Clay says he notices lots of smokers among the Canadian population)
and telling us he was sold out of almost everything. Plan B took us in search
of his recommendation, newly-opened Chuckles Jack (isn’t that a fun name for a
restaurant!), but they’d not received their liquor license (whatever it’s
called in Canada), so we moved on to Plan C. That was my choice even though the
menu looked good; I wanted a glass of wine and I figured Clay would want a
beer. We ended up at Ft. Hemlock, seated on the back deck overlooking the old
mill and falls (I assume a sawmill built by Thomas Smyth for whom the town was
named). We had a fabulous view from our vantage point, and our meals were
palatable if not somewhat tasty. Third choice wasn’t too bad after all.
This seemed to be a hopping spot where we were joined by many of the race
runners who had completed the multi-lap race in Victoria Park; don’t know if it
was a 10K, 5K or half-marathon…we only know that we saw the same runners go by
our boat’s bow again and again and again earlier afternoon.
Sunday
soon became our day of wrong turns! After leaving the docks of Victoria Park,
we immediately locked through the Smiths Falls Detached Lock #31, continued
through a swing bridge and on to Poonamalie Lock #32 (try pronouncing that
one!). At this point on my list, the list of locks, bridges, wharfs, bays,
lakes and parks confused me. The listing of Poonamalie Lock #32 at mile 62.8
continued on sequentially through mile 74.9 with various locks, bridges, etc.,
but then the next listing backtracked to mile 68.7 and continued sequentially
(but this wasn’t sequential!) So, I guided Captain Clay sequentially to arrive
at Lower Beveridges Lock #33 at mile 68.8.
How
many boats have the distinction and recognition of doing half a lock?
Clay
and I waved cheerfully to the picnickers along the gray wall at the entry to
Lower Beveridges Lock #33 as we entered the chamber to lock up. I secured our
lines to the cables, remarking to Clay how awful the cables were (translation:
slimy, gooey, yuk-encrusted…take your pick of synonym descriptors). Upstream
waters began to fill the chamber at which time one of the cute, young Parcs
Canada summer staffers asked me how far we were going. “At least through the
next lock (Upper Beveridges),” I replied. He said, “You can’t go much farther
than that. There’s a 7’ fixed bridge just beyond.” Uh-oh. A quick confab
between him and our good Captain established that we were in the (wrong) lock
doing what locals considered a day trip to Perth, not headed to Kingston. With
courage, I asked the cute, young Parcs Canada summer staffer if we could
reverse course midway, i.e., if they could now drain that which they were
filling. With additional courage, I asked if any other boats had made the same
mistake; and with a wink, he assured me we weren’t the only ones, maybe just
the only ones so far this season.
The
now two cute, young Parcs Canada summer staffers challenged the good Captain to
back out of the lock which he did with finesse and aplomb. I had remarked to
them that I have a good Captain. To top it off, he did a 180 in what I
considered a narrow passage to return from where we’d come. As we now exited
the Lower Beveridges Lock #33, the picnickers asked how our trip was, to which
I replied, “Fabulous! I highly recommend it!” We all got a chuckle out of that
exchange. Not too many Loopers can claim having done a half of a lock! OK you
guys, ‘fess up! Note: NOW I understand our Ontario Waterways guide; it
sequentially makes sense!
Back
on the ‘road’ toward Kingston, Clay fielded a cell call from a friend and
chatted merrily as we made our way toward the Narrows Lock #35. I can attest to
the fact that talking on the phone distracts the boat driver (me, when I drive)
from the chart plotter’s charted course. And obviously, on this large body of
water called the Big Rideau, there are many ‘charted courses,’ meaning channels
to various locations on the Big Rideau’s shoreline. Distracted, and without the
advantage of an overall area map to guide him, Clay guided port instead of
starboard, and we took the channel toward Portland. Nice place to visit
Portland was purported to be, but we weren’t going there. Oops, boo boo #2.
Score: Clay and I were tied, love-love. Needless to say, we were thrilled to
reach the Narrows Lock and snugged in at the lock station dock for the
overnight this Sunday night. I promptly sought solitude on the fly bridge while
Clay weaved among the dock tailers with boats secured here. A 1.5 hour nap to
awaken at 7:30 p.m. gave me enough energy to stoke up dinner (yay, balsamic
chicken), then read until bedtime. Note: As I recount this tale, I’m finding
brochures I wish we’d accessed before making this trip along the Rideau!
We’re
now at mile 82.3 with 43.3 miles to the Kingston Causeway bridge. I will bid
you adieu as I close for now. More adventures from SaSea Sally upcoming.
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