Chesapeake Bay, September 4 - 5, 2014 (Cape Charles and Onancock)

September 4 - 5, 2014

Awakening to a beautiful Thursday morning at the recently renovated town marina (Cape Charles Town Harbor) in Cape Charles, VA, Clay and I were quick to don walking shoes and make our way over the nearby railroad tracks toward the highly-touted public beach right on the Bay. The boardwalk along the beach to which we'd been directed was actually a long public pier jutting out into the water some 100 yards. We extended our walk by exploring the residential section of this cute harbor town then stuck our noses into the historic downtown hardware store where Clay couldn't resist a new screaming-bargain wide-brimmed straw hat for $9.99. We discovered that Cape Charles was, for many years, the terminal for passenger and car ferry service across the Bay to Norfolk and Hampton. The construction of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel made ferry transportation obsolete, and although there is no longer passenger ferry service across the Bay, rail barges still depart from Cape Charles, transporting railcars over the open waters.

Anticipating a three-hour cruise to Onancock, VA, we untied lines, stowed fenders, departed at noon and hoped for smoother sailing! It was another rough go of it, extending to almost five and a half hours of constant motion. Clay was snugly ensconced in his quite comfortable (recliner) captain's chair at the helm, but I continued to do battle with a bench seat and biting flies. Our entry into the Chesapeake seemed to have introduced fruit flies and house flies, neither of which we'd encountered for some time. The rain, often indicated by biting flies, must have passed to the south of us for which I was extremely grateful.

We wound our way from the flashing green "1" at Onancock Creek's mouth through the deep and well-marked tributary on Virginia's Eastern Shore for five miles to reach the town of Onancock. A rookie dockmaster greeted us at the Onancock Town Marina, giving us a prime docking location which required only little effort from each Clay (driving) and me (crewing). Our numerous lines were adjusted, then readjusted and then readjusted again to accommodate both the expected tide and our ability (or lack thereof) to disembark.

Having been alerted to free laundry machines (Captain Clay had done his homework this time!), I was armed and ready to process three loads; but with only one machine each wash and dry, I was anticipating a lengthy stay in the laundryroom. Not to be! We rendezvoused with Debbie and Allan (Lady D) for dinner at the adjacent Mallard's at the Wharf during which time I periodically excused myself to process ongoing laundry only a very short distance away. Where there's a will, there's certainly a way! And not rudely so...Debbie and Allan are fellow boaters so understood our circumstances. Mallard's offered a casual and inexpensive fare in a choice of inside (a rustic, old-time general store atmosphere) or outside dining (a pretty waterside courtyard); Debbie quickly chose the courtyard...delightful, but a few too many biting mosquitoes for my enjoyment!

We wandered up the hill into town on our morning walk Friday, passing beautifully restored homes with manicured yards on immaculate streets. The downtown was peaceful, picturesque with a multitude of shops to accommodate business on a daily basis. The happening place was the Corner Bakery where we joined folks of all ages coming and going with bakery purchases in hand. Clay was pleased to find the bakery's version of a cinnamon (or was it pee-kan?) bun so bought a duo.  We returned to the boat for breakfast; and anticipating only a short cruising day to Tangier Island, VA this day, I spent time changing beds and defrosting yet again the galley freezer. I have defrosted a freezer more times in this year spent aboard than I have in my entire life up to our August 25, 2013 Loop departure. But I'm getting good at it and have whittled total time down to fifteen minutes, start to finish. I move fast to prevent thawing and also just because I move fast at most everything I do.
 
Onancock was the home of Francis and Naomie Makemie and the birthplace of organized Presbyterianism.  Makemie's first "licensed preaching places" was his home in Onancock.  A number of interesting churches were located in Onancock.

 

A note about Clay's choice of destinations...Clay has researched marinas, waterways, and the like on an ongoing basis since starting the Great Loop. He and I have both fostered relationships with folks, but he has taken it one step further in using those resource persons as guides along our route. Our friends Peggy and Hans (Aqua Vitae) suggested Tangier Island in an email I will share with you:  "If you can POSSIBLY manage it, stop at Parks Marina on Tangier Island and spend two nights. Milton Parks is a legend. The place is not long for this world, as it's sinking--their graves are above ground. Rent a golf cart and ride around the island...SLOWLY. There's not much there, other than a community that is working hard for survival and doing it with hard work, honesty and generations of watermen and their women. The women have saved the island. Long story. But if you can go to Tangier Island, you will experience something that is totally unique, and that isn't going to last. Listen carefully for the Elizabethan English accent. If you hear them talking together, you won't quite be able to understand them..."not quite," but close. It's from the 13th century, as after settlement they were isolated for generations. Want crabs? Ask for a waterman on the dock. Be courteous. They are eager to help, to inform, to share. But they're sensitive about their differences. Wow. We need to go there soon again."

We departed Onancock shortly before 1 p.m., retracing the five-mile stretch of Onancock Creek and entering a plethera of waves on Chesapeake Bay, guaranteeing yet again another rough ride! We endured the discomfort and blew into the marked channel of Tangier Island almost three hours later.  

More soon to follow of our stay in Tangier, VA.