We
awakened to rain this Monday morning at the Narrows Lock so we busied ourselves
with some housekeeping chores in anticipation of the rain letting up so we
could travel. We’d heard tales of an end-all-and-be-all old general store in
Newboro called Kilborn’s on the Rideau advertised in our cruising guide as ‘a
labyrinth of shops selling fine apparel and country crafts.’ Thus, we’d decided
that to be a stop along our route today. Newboro was one of the original
settlements along the Rideau, so there was a number of historic buildings
dating from the 1830’s we hoped to see. Per our guide, should we need
groceries, we had the option of a small store with frozen gourmet dinners.
‘Newboro is the busiest lock on the Rideau Canal system, with cottagers,
fishermen, and day-trippers adding to the lock’s volume of cruiser traffic.
Back in the days when the Ontario Department of Transport ran the canal,
Newboro was one of three locations where the locks were converted to
hydraulic/electric operation. No further conversions were attempted when it
turned out the new locks, although expensive, operated no faster than the
original manual ones.’
Skies
cleared mid-morn allowing us to lock through the Narrows Lock to then arrive
and lock through the Newboro Lock. This latter lock is the summit of the Rideau
Canal System at which point we will be traveling downstream, and the buoys have
switched sides on the channel. Snugged to shore at Newboro, we walked a short
distance to Kilborn’s where I quickly realized Kilborn’s IS Newboro. There was
a congregation of cars parked along the highway here, and I believe all car
occupants were shopping in Kilborn’s. I do believe our guide to be outdates
(yep, 2007) because Kilborn’s was more than ‘fine apparel and country crafts.’
Children’s clothing and western wear; shoes galore; men’s and women’s clothing;
lotions and potions; kitchenware and household goods; gourmet mustards, coffees
and teas; fudge and candies; and even a small soda fountain at the entrance…the
store seemed to bleed from one room into another, upstairs and down. Clay, who
had detoured to a homecut French fry stand, would never find me here. Fun to
look, but what did I need on a boat? Note: Our only purchase in town was Clay’s
fries, but it sure was fun lookin’.
We
had no destination in mind for today’s travel; we’d go until we decided to
stop. The waterway guided us from Newboro Lock to Chaffeys Lock then on to
Davis Lock, distances of 5.3 miles and 2.1 miles respectively. As we prepared
to enter Davis Lock, I stared in ‘shock’ at the port bow clamp and rope which
should—but didn’t—secure to the boat our big, red A-4 ball fender (my friend
which gives me confidence in handling locks without fear of mashing our bow).
Now our big, red A-4 ball fender was MIA. Sure that it was floating in the
Chaffeys Lock chamber, Clay called the Chaffey lock master with a negative
response. Clay decided at that point to retrace our 2.1 mile path in search of
the big red ball; shouldn’t be too hard to spot (but harder to retrieve in the
current stiff winds). So retrace we did—without success. Darn. That sucker
wasn’t cheap!
Another
180, we returned to Davis Lock #38 to lock through and continue our journey. We
arrived at Jones Falls Lock #39 where we opted to tie for the night without
power; no worries as no rain in the forecast. It was, by now, 4:50 p.m. and we
were ready to quit our day’s travel. We tied to the blue line with the approval
of the Parcs Canada staff, then plopped on the bench seats of the fly bridge to
wind down. Tied on the gray line across the waterway from us approximately
100’was a rental houseboat with a family aboard. It was fun listening to their
laughter and splashing as they hand-paddled a big inflatable which was making
more circular progress than linear. They were carefree and having a blast. As
we later walked past their ‘camp site,’ I noticed the wide variety of ages and
the ‘luxury’ of a generator providing the power they needed. It dawned on me
there’s a huge difference between playing on a boat and living on one!
At
the foot of the lower locks was ‘another Rideau Canal institution, the Hotel
Kenney, operated since it was built in 1877 by the Kenney family. Though
updated over the decades with a heated pool, gas pump at the main dock and more
cabins, the traditions of serving vacationers in their fishing ventures or
simply relaxing in this charming setting continues.’ With its promotion of a
full dining room, Clay decided we needed to dine at Hotel Kenney. But not to be
when he could find no menu online nor hit on Trip Advisor…and I thought that
fella was adventuresome! As I emerged showered and dressed, Clay’s comment was,
“ummm, you might wanna look.” I guess that meant Sally’s galley would be open
this eve.
I
awakened on high alert not one but two times overnight with the pitter-patter
of raindrops falling softly on SaSea Sally. I was accused by Captain Clay of
being an alarmist as I bolted from bed to close windows, doors and various port
holes. Hey, rather to be proactive than reactive; I didn’t wanna be drying out
mattresses and what nots the next morn, that’s for sure. Proof positive that
Canadian weather forecasters are as often wrong as they are right; seems to be
common ‘knowledge’ up here.
Our
Tuesday morning walk took us via highway (two-lane asphalt county road)
downhill to Hotel Kenney, a considerable distance. We snapped a few pix,
crossed a one-lane rickety old bridge and noted the presence of numerous
Canadian geese. Regal creatures, they acted as though they owned the place.
From the hotel, we walked alongside the Jones Falls three flight locks and
single lock to our boat, a short two-minute hoof-it back. We swatted a few
horseflies as we noted the presence of poison ivy alert signs along our path.
Coupled with the moths I encountered at the bath house early morn, no one needs
to convince me we’re camping. I know it!
Because
we are docked at the blue line, our blue-line wall soon populated with other
boats wanting to lock through Jones Falls with us. A wait of one-plus hours
coupled with a series of four locks gives plenty of time to get to know your
lock companions. I chatted amiably with the gal aboard Moo-shu while Clay
conversed at the stern with her captain. Nice time to glean local knowledge
because most of these folks are Canadians and not fellow Loopers. The series of
four locks here, as well as series elsewhere, also gives us a chance to get
acquainted with the Parcs Canada staff, many of whom are college students with
this their summer job. It is readily apparent to us that many of the
students are novice when it comes to boats, boating, locking, handling lines
and fenders, etc. But they are so cute, so friendly, and so willing to help.
And, they are learning; they’ll be pros by summer’s end!
Note:
We are doing right now what is known as a side trip, more specifically this
side trip is called the “Little Loop” or the “Mini Loop” or the “Triangle Loop”
from Brewerton to Waterford, NY, up the Champlain Canal and Lake Champlain and
then following the path we have taken through Montreal, Ottawa and Kingston.
(To complete the Little/Mini/Triangle Loop, we would travel the leg from
Kingston back to Brewerton; instead, we will travel from Kingston to Trenton
where we will begin the Trent-Severn Waterway.)
Tuesday’s
travels took us through seven locks and three bridges, navigating only 12.6
miles to dock on the gray line at Lower Brewers (Washburn) Lock #45. We’d
queried our lock companions as to the best overnight location, and they
unanimously agreed we needed to stop prior to the Kingston Mills Locks where
we’d find all-night train and highway noise. Our spot, a pretty little park
area, was occupied along the gray line by one lone boat, her cheery captain and
his adorable dog. I snapped a delightful shot of Clay with man and dog as they
got acquainted; it’s one of my favorite photos thus far!
Wednesday
morning’s departure was delayed by an unexpected three-hour rain shower, but
mid-morning saw us underway. We handled the Kingston Mills Locks #46 and #47-49
(flight) with a Carver and Three Cheers, the latter with whom we’d
traveled and docked prior. Early on, I had asked Peggy aboard Three Cheers
if she had a cheer for her boat with a name like that; she was short and
succinct with “Hip Hip Hooray.” Thus, each time I greeted her after that
initial meeting, I always greeted her with “Hip Hip Hooray.” Got smiles all the
way around!
Clay
had earlier informed me that we had a deadline to meet today; the Kingston
LaSalle Causeway bridge opened only on the hour excluding rush hours of 8 a.m.,
noon, 4 and 5 p.m. Thus, if we didn’t make the 3 p.m. bridge opening, we’d have
to wait until 6 p.m. Three Cheers had no worries with a short cut for
shorter boats and thus avoiding the bridge altogether; but both the Carver and
SaSea Sally needed to make the opening. Carver Captain assured me we would have
no problem, so we kept pace with him and actually had to maintain position
idling for about 25 minutes prior to the 1 p.m. opening. And Clay had worries
of making 3 p.m.?
Once
through the bridge, we entered a vast waterway at Kingston Harbor which was the
St. Lawrence River to our left (port) and Lake Ontario to our right
(starboard). Our marina reservation was on the St. Lawrence River so we turned
port and navigated through a sudden downpour to Treasure Island Marina where we
planned to regroup and prep for our first guest aboard Caroline Gower.
As
we snug into Treasure Island Marina, I will once again bid you farewell and
hope your summer is going well as ours is.
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