Norfolk, VA to Crisfield, MD, May 9 - 15, 2015

May 9 - 15, 2015

10 minutes before the fog

We awakened to a dense layer of fog this Saturday morning in Norfolk, one of only a few Looper boats yet to depart Waterside Marina northbound. Bright sunshine quickly burned off the fog layer and allowed us to mosey toward the pumpout station to empty our bowels prior to departure. Captain Clay had chosen a sixteen-mile route to Hampton, VA, which would take us from this location on the Elizabeth River, past Willoughby Bay, across Hampton Roads, and up the Hampton River. 

CVN 77 George H W Bush Aircraft Carrier

They are coming to get us!

They got us!

Soon after breaking free of Norfolk, we were slowed by the thick blanket of fog which once again plagued the area. Not good travel conditions! We poked along as best we could, finding a distant white boat to direct our path. Radio communication became quite entertaining when a Navy patrol boat intercepted our guide boat to escort her around aircraft carrier CVN 77 - USS George H. W. Bush, a slightly darker, large gray mass in the distance, but with a commanding presence around which had to be maintained a 500(?) yard perimeter. Clay and I got a good chuckle then realized our turn was next. Clay hollered orders to me to 'get a good picture' which was equally humorous when it was exceedingly hard to discern one gray mass from another, especially through a camera lens.

Passing the area without incident, we found ourselves in and out of fog until the sun established a permanence and dispelled any chance of recurrence. Two hours post departure we docked at the Hampton Public Piers in a location which allowed full view of Hampton University's graduation celebration on the opposite shoreline. What fun to see the big white tent, listen to live music, and witness this memorable occasion.

Hampton Univ. at Hampton VA

Hampton VA Lighthouse

Old hotel at Hampton VA

Our Sunday morning walk took us across the bridge to the university side of the Hampton River. Crawling with black-robed, mortar-boarded individuals, the campus was hopping. As Clay and I dodged traffic, we realized the revelry of yesterday was the party before the Sunday commencement. There's just something energizing about a college campus! So happy to be among the graduates.

Onancock Warf office

Ft Monroe in Hampton VA

As we arrived back at the boat, Clay initiated an abrupt departure leaving this first mate none-too-happy! I'd like a LITTLE advance warning, Captain! We soon found ourselves cruising the Chesapeake Bay with SaSea's ride rough interspersed with tolerable. Seven hours later we arrived at Anancock, VA and were greeted by dockmaster Charles who could use a lesson or two in line-handling. A boat wash, two laundry load cycles, and grilled burgers completed our day.

Kayak class at Onancock

We had no rain overnight, but the weather front moved in quickly on Monday, soaking both Clay and me on our morning walk. But he returned to the boat a happy camper with sticky buns from the local bakery in hand; the bakery bag served as minimal protection from the rain, but the buns weren't too soggy. And, the price was right at eighty cents per treat. We'd remembered the bakery from our previous visit, so the memory propelled Clay to imbibe again. 

Our departure from Anancock was put on hold as we waited for the rain and wind to pass. All in all, it was a ho-hum day in close quarters where I took every available break in the weather to wander the town, poking my head in the few businesses open on Mondays. Nighttime descended with SaSea Sally still docked in the harbor, so another night in port unexpectedly occupied our agenda.

Tangier Ferry at Onancock

Tuesday dawned with clearing skies but a stiff breeze which guaranteed a challenging departure. Clay clued his technique off the Tangier Island ferry which had arrived then departed mid-morning after delivering a corpse from the unique Tangier Island. The island's watermen and their families live a far different lifestyle from that to which we are accustomed!

Highrise on the Chrisfield Waterfront

Ruin near Chisfield

Continuing stiff winds accompanied us on a wild ride on the Bay with beam waves rocking and rolling our trawler. Not fun by any definition of the word 'fun.' Thankful for the mere three-hour cruising duration, I welcomed the sight of our next port of call, Crisfield, MD. Once docked, Clay perched atop the fly bridge for a lengthy conference call giving me opportunity to explore the area around Somers Cove Marina. Not much here, my prevailing thought was, "The Marina can well afford to be generous and hospitable in offering one-night-free-with-two-nights'-stay...who would stay three nights at this location by choice?" Clay treated me to dinner out at a mom-and-pop cafe called the Water's Edge which disappointed Clay in having no liquor license. No beer for him this night.

Narrow entrance to the Chrisfield Harbor

We awakened Wednesday morning to WIND and 69 degrees (vs yesterday's 85 and sunny). We took a long morning walk, traversing the three legs of a right triangle past the Crisfield High School, a Food Lion (grocery), a Dollar General, and a Family Dollar. Returning to our dock slip, we helped two daring sailboat crews depart the dock, then simply hung out at the boat most of the day, doing what you do on a day where you hang out. Brightening an otherwise boring existence this day was the arrival of nursery friends George and Lou Kemp for a visit aboard. Nice to see our nursery friends and share updates on mutual acquaintances!

Clay, Lou and George Kemp of Bountiful Ridge Nursery

Thursday was a productive day during which time I paid bills, downloaded credit card statements and cross-checked monthly charges, cleaned the coffee pot, and defrosted the freezer. 

Late morning, we off-loaded the bikes for a conditioning ride after which I donned a back pack for a grocery bike hike to Food Lion while Clay inflated the dinghy which was in a deplorable state of collapse. I do believe Clay's prompt to inflate the dinghy was two-fold: a) we had plans for frequent use of the dinghy in the near future; and b) the deflated boat and securing straps had flapped unmercifully the previous windy night, creating monstrous unsettling noises.

Sunset at Chrisfield MD

We took the harbor master's suggestion for fine dining this night at Watermen's Inn. A bright spot on the radar screen for any of you friends who venture this way, I highly recommend the shrimp scampi which was a dish of delightfully seasoned shrimp and veggies over linguini. Clay commented the dipping sauce simply 'made' his choice of crab cakes.

Friday morning we struck out on our now firmly established walking route (I like routine whereas Clay's much more eager to explore the unknown route), returning for a mid-morning departure after pumping out and taking on gas for the dinghy. Our destination was the river home of college Theta friend Judy Folks Holmes and her hubby Gregg.

The Glebe River off the Potomac River

As we cross the Bay yet again with our sights set on the Glebe River near the mouth of the Potomac, I bid you a fond farewell until we 'meet' again.

They do have a few "pushers" in the Chesapeake