Charleston (Downtown), SC June 24-July 1, 2014

June 24-July 1, 2014

Cruising through Elliot Cut - a high current canal

Upon leaving St John's Yacht Harbor, we encountered Elliot Cut, a narrow man-made cut between the Charleston Harbor and the Stono River to the south.  The current and eddies in Elliot Cut when the tide changes have quite a reputation.  We timed the transit of Elliot Cut so we had little current.

Yachts at the Charleston Mega Dock

The ICW enters Charleston Harbor on the Ashley River side (south side) of the peninsula on which the City of Charleston sits.  Located on the Ashley River is the Charleston City Marina which usually has a number of huge yachts docked on the outside finger, which is dubbed the "mega dock".

Excursion boat

Home on the harbor

Home on the harbor

We then had to cruise around the parameter of the City of Charleston to our marina on the Cooper River side (north side) across from the USS Yorktown aircraft carrier.  During our cruise around the parameter of Charleston, we saw many of Charleston's beautiful homes, the battery park on the east end of town, cruise boats, sail tour boats, and various fortifications including Ft Sumter.

Carolina Belle excursion boat

Freighter at the Charleston dock

USS Yorktown

The Charleston adventures continued as we docked at the Charleston Maritime Center mid-afternoon Tuesday. Once registered, we received an orientation to the downtown area and various amenities by dockmaster Bob. We decided to explore the area and headed south toward Harris Teeter (grocery store) and the City Market beyond. 

What a fabulous historic town Charleston is, with its rich history, beautiful architecture, multitudes of restaurants and fine dining establishments, stately trees and lush landscapes, horse drawn carriages and bike taxis, and more. Clay and I wandered through the City Market, or Centre Market, a historic market complex in downtown Charleston which was established in the 1790s. The market stretches for four city blocks from the architecturally-significant Market Hall, which faces Meeting Street, through a continuous series of one-story market sheds, the last of which terminates at East Bay Street. Vendors set up their 'kiosks' daily in these sheds and sell souvenirs such as jewelry and Gullah sweetgrass baskets just as in earlier days vendors sold beef and produce.

Rehabed apartment building at Battery Park

After traversing the full length of City Market, Clay and I reversed our course and studied menus of various restaurants bordering the market. Knowing John and Kristen would arrive in time for dinner, we'd hoped to have a destination in mind for our evening meal. We headed back to the boat, showered, then departed after a glass of wine just as J&K rounded the corner of the Maritime Center. The four of us set off on foot again toward the downtown area and chose AW Shucks for a casual dinner, entering the air-conditioned restaurant interior by way of the porch where jetted machines spritzed diners for a misty, cooling effect; we decided we'd rather have air conditioning!

Clay, Sally and son John

A yacht club in Charleston

Our first overnight validated the comments from Looper friends that there's lotsa motion in Charleston marinas. Clay and I had noticed the constant movement from the time of our arrival, probably due to wind, current, and the busy-ness of the harbor with tour boats, cruise liners, freighters and tows with barges. And, many of these passing boats were BIG. Plus, we had little barrier between us and them (no breakwall, few dock fingers, etc.) Knowing the three Logans would well handle the motion, I armed Kristen, as precautionary, with sea bands and ear plugs in hopes of a good night's sleep. John poo-poo'd the idea, but I figured better safe than sorry! And, non-invasive...not gonna hurt anything.

The US19 bridge over the Cooper River

Our first morning walk (Wednesday), designed by Clay in the lead (well, Clay was never really in the lead; he was just calling the shots on the route) took two hours to complete a one-hour cardio. He was happy; me, hmmm, not so much. City intersections don't make very good cardio routes; Clay challenged me to find a more consistent path (Lookout buddy, I love a challenge!) We did manage to see some of the business/retail district north of City Market. And, we stopped for brochures and info at the Visitors Center. We circled by Harris Teeter for bagels the size of tractor tires...which were large but not very tasty. Note to self: Panera and Publix far surpass other bakers in the bagel department!

Our boat guests had left for an early morning surf lesson on Folly Beach with a rental car at their disposal, so Clay and I returned to an empty boat and a day to plan. We opted to go our separate ways, with Clay destined for the Fort Sumpter Museum on the waterfront just north of our marina while I stayed aboard and did office work with a bit of housework thrown in for good measure. With four aboard currently, clutter seems to accumulate rapidly. Later afternoon, I poked my nose in a few shops on King Street, focusing on "Oops," a catalog overstocks and irregulars retailer.

Leftovers for dinner, we ate in shifts. As Clay and I finished our dinner and clean-up, the surfers appeared for a later evening fine dining experience ('fine' dining because they were eating their Savannah, GA Pink House (restaurant) leftovers from the evening prior).

Pipes carrying water and ice to boats

Maritime Centers ice plant and pneumatic delivery plant

Our dock finger of the Maritime Center marina serviced shrimp boats, boats wanting to take on fuel and/or pump out, short-term transients, the Carolina Belle excursion boat which makes frequent runs daily and fishermen out for their morning and late afternoon catch. On our approach to the marina Tuesday, we'd overheard radio conversation to the fact that the deck hand was going to "blow out the line" in preparation for a shrimper due in soon. Shortly thereafter and from our slip location, we heard a loud swooshing clatter unlike any sound we'd heard before. The "line" previously referenced was not a water line but rather an ice line probably 8" in diameter thru which ice was blown to the shrimp boat. This marina houses a unique three-story plant that manufactures ice on the top floor, weighs it on the second floor, and blows it through a pipe from air compressed on the first floor to accommodate the ice needs of the shrimp boats (Can you tell that this previous line was Clay written? I would have no knowledge nor recollection of such detail!). Hope that noise is only during daylight hours!

The fisherman that fished from our pier every day

Speaking of fishermen, an elderly black man appeared pre-dawn on his bicycle daily, set up 'shop' on the pier and fished for dinner. He was pleased to host a photo op when he nabbed a 4' sand shark that, along with grits, would be his evening meal. I recalled our shark steak dinner Monday eve and was somewhat envious. Gotta get Clay in fishing mode!

Thursday morning's walking route was Sally-designed. And, it proved to be a more consistent path along the waterfront with pretty scenery and few interruptions. We passed by the marina's second dock finger which hosts the water taxi port and a tourboat sailing vessel; the Fort Sumpter Museum; the Charleston Aquarium; and a waterfront park which hosted a memorial to Ireland.

USS Yorktown flight deck

Circumnavigaters Beverly and Tom on Half Moon

Following our walk and breakfast, Clay bought his $10 all-day water taxi ticket and boarded the water taxi for a trip across the harbor to the naval aircraft carrier, the USS Yorktown. 

Half Moon (l) and SaSea Sally

Appreciating my most-of-the-day to myself (kids had yet again gone to Folly Beach to swim/sun/surf), I made the trek to the you-meet-the-nicest-people-in-the-laundry room where I met Beverly (Half Moon) where we shared stories of circumnavigation...me, of 10+ months of the Great Loop on a trawler; and Bevery, of 20+ years of the world on a sailboat. Hmmm, I wonder whose stories held more fascination? Yet, the similarity of our stories was striking!

John Logan surfing

Kristen surfing

More surfing

Completing the laundry, I had a quick lunch onboard then anticipated jumping on my bike to cruise a section of the
 downtown peninsula and another stretch of King Street only to be interrupted by son John calling from Kristen's phone that his phone was AOL (as in missing). Why do we moms always get those kind of calls...the high highs and the low lows? There was little I could do from afar (and with no wheels) other than console, advise, pray that he find it, and offer to call his number periodically. He and Kristen did everything right, which included having the 'Find My Phone' app previously installed on the phone. Note to self: Install said app on my phone!

I biked the area I outlined and answered calls from Clay (he was home), from John (still in search mode), then put in an appearance at H&M clothing store on King Street. It was there that I found my July 4th shirt (blue and white) and received a call that John's phone had been found by a good samaritan. Hooray! And so thankful! Despite having insurance on the phone, finding it was high priority as it held all of his vacation pictures. And he snaps photos just as Clay does...frequently and sometimes even annoyingly.

Clay, Shap's faience Sue Reed, cousin Shap, Kristen, John & Sally

Sue, Shap, Sally & Clay

A treat was in store Thursday evening as Clay had made plans for drinks aboard the SaSea Sally and dinner with cousin Shap Shapleigh and his fiancee Sue Reed at the Carolina Yacht Club. What fun we had getting acquainted with Sue, and Clay, reacquainting with Shap. John and Kristen chose to join us, then excused themselves from coffee and dessert at the CYC, opting instead to take a Charleston Ghost Tour in the late evening hours. Dinner at the CYC was delicious and festive, with a toast to the famiy reunion as well as to Shap and Sue's upcoming wedding in early 2015.

Kristen boarding

Beau Peterson on SaSea Sally

Friday saw the kids departing yet again for Folly Beach as we left for our morning walk. Upon their return post lunch, we four made our way to the City Market and to Palmettoville, a souvenir shop owned by a recent acquaintance from St. John's Yacht Harbor who more-than-graciously gave us coupons for free tee shirts, an enticement for us to shop in his store (which we did). We wandered thru various other stores, then made our way

back to meet John's fraternity brother and Columbia, SC resident Beau Peterson who wanted a tour of the boat, some conversation, and then was joining John and Kristen for dinner. Storms were brewing, so Clay and I opted to eat leftovers aboard...a wise choice when a substantial downpour undoubtedly got the trio of young diners soaked. Bed came matter of factly (as in abruptly...I'm done) for me when the continuing storms produced an overabundance of wave action (and thus rocking action) and a disconnecting internet connection. Had enuf! Going to bed!

Carolina Day colorguard

Carolina Day parade

Carolina Day parade

Carolina Day parade

 Carolina Day parade

Canon battery at Carolina Day Celebration

Saturday dawned, signaling a farmers market at Marion Square and Carolina Day festivities (thanks, Shap, for the heads-up!), celebrating the Battle of Sullivan's Island. The latter included a procession from Washington Park to White Point Gardens where speeches, music, and the firing of cannons would conclude the one-hour event. After getting separated on our routine morning walk (a happening that bugs the heck out of Sal--raises her bp at least multiple notches--and bothers not at all the 'separatee'), we decided to each design our own morning routine. So, mounting bikes, Clay rode first to Washington Park while I made a beeline for Marion Square. We each then vice versa'd, then met up at the farmers market for lunch and for Clay to backpack the cantaloupe home to the boat. My schedule caused me to rocket skyward (jumped at least 8" high) when the first of numerous cannon firings occurred; man was that loud, but fun! And, of course, I dashed off in search of the cannon post where I could get a good shot or two of my own...camera shots, that is! Don't know 'bout Clay, but I was happy with my morning design!

Horse and buggy at the Market in Charleston

Clay putz'd around the boat after noon while I biked more of the peninsula, then met a solo John at City Market. Kristen had become the casualty of one-too-many surf/wave rides and had presumably pulled a back muscle. I suggested the RICE approach to nurse her aching back (well, at least rest, ice and ibuprofen...experience is a terrific teacher, eh sister Sus?), then agreed to be companion to John for the later afternoon browsing. Clay's cell call at 5:30 p.m., warning me of the rapidly approaching storm (notice a trend here...these storms seem to always approach rapidly!), had me pedaling at breakneck speed back to the boat, but not before I took a quick peek at pix of John's night on the town the previous evening. Apparently, my quick peek wasn't quick enough; I arrived 100 yards from the boat when the first baseball-size drops started falling (well, maybe ping pong ball size; nickel size?) They were HUGE and regardless of the rate of the rainfall, the drops were big enough to soak me in record time. And, Clay wanted my bike ONBOARD, not propped against the dock's bike rack. Really? Well, that sealed the deal on both of us getting soaked! It was gonna be a two-shower day for me...and probably for John as well.

Amazingly, the clouds broke, and clearing skies allowed the sun to peek through. That gave promise to a dry-clothing dinner at the Charleston Crab House where I'd made reservations earlier for four, this being the last evening of Kristen and John's vacation. Dinner for four became dinner for three with take-out for the ailing surfer who continued to nurse her ailing back while watching movies on her iPad.

Clay and I fielded cell texts of the kids' timely SWA departure, homeward bound Sunday morning, then climbed aboard our bikes for a long ride through the retail and residential streets of Charleston. With Clay in the lead, we made our way toward The Battery, then turned northwest toward the US Coast Guard Station and the City Marina. I'm sure, as we pedaled past the City Marina, the fact that joggers were passing us was due to Clay's trying to locate Looper flags on the boats harbored there. Or? Nonetheless, with again dark gray clouds dotting the skies above, we set our radar toward SaSea and wound our way home. We completed a nice Sunday with grilled ground lamb burgers (a new fav of mine) with asparagus and Trader Joe's rice medley.
 

Sally biking the Charleston Bridge over the Cooper River

Sally and Clay opted for a side trip by bike to the huge suspension bridge carrying US17 over the Cooper River just north of the Charleston Maritime Center.  This trip was 4-5 miles round trip including the gradual incline up to the bridge deck.  From the center, signs indicated it was 1.25 miles to the end of the bridge!  The view was fantastic.

Monday was wrap-it-up day at the Charleston Maritime Center in prep for Tuesday's departure, so it included such things as laundry, office/desk work, and a wash job of the decks during the morning hours. The intensity and focus of the morning's productivity allowed us to spend afternoon hours biking, at Dockmaster Bob's suggestion, the suspension bridge. So fun! Note: John and Kristen, make sure to include that activity on your next visit to Charleston! We dined at the Noisy Oyster where I delighted in the citrus mango vinegarette salad dressing and another glass of house wine which was really rather good, while Clay devoured the grilled seafood platter. I think biking had made impact on both our appetites!

Carnival Fantasy  leaving Charleston

Captain Clay apprised the first mate of an 8:00 a.m. Tuesday departure from Charleston with Georgetown, SC as our evening's destination. We finally departed at 9:20 a.m. from the pumpout station, with both pumping out and Clay's research on Arthur as delays...and probably both worthy of the time spent. As we cruised toward Georgetown, our thoughts turned toward both preparing for guests Johnny and Audrey Roberts arrival as well as for tropical-storm-turning-hurricane Arthur.