June 24-July 1, 2014
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| Cruising through Elliot Cut - a high current canal |
Upon leaving St John's Yacht Harbor, we encountered Elliot Cut, a narrow
man-made cut between the Charleston Harbor and the Stono River to the
south. The current and eddies in Elliot Cut when the tide changes have
quite a reputation. We timed the transit of Elliot Cut so we had little
current.
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| Yachts at the Charleston Mega Dock |
The ICW enters Charleston Harbor on the Ashley River side (south side) of
the peninsula on which the City of Charleston sits. Located on the Ashley
River is the Charleston City Marina which usually has a number of huge yachts
docked on the outside finger, which is dubbed the "mega dock".
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| Excursion boat |
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| Home on the harbor |
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| Home on the harbor |
We then had to cruise around the parameter of the City of Charleston to our
marina on the Cooper River side (north side) across from the USS Yorktown
aircraft carrier. During our cruise around the parameter of Charleston, we saw many of Charleston's beautiful homes, the battery park on the east end of town, cruise boats, sail tour boats, and various fortifications including Ft Sumter.
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| Carolina Belle excursion boat |
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| Freighter at the Charleston dock |
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| USS Yorktown |
The
Charleston adventures continued as we docked at the Charleston Maritime Center
mid-afternoon Tuesday. Once registered, we received an orientation to the
downtown area and various amenities by dockmaster Bob. We decided to explore
the area and headed south toward Harris Teeter (grocery store) and the City
Market beyond.
What a fabulous historic town Charleston is, with its rich
history, beautiful architecture, multitudes of restaurants and fine dining
establishments, stately trees and lush landscapes, horse drawn carriages and
bike taxis, and more. Clay and I wandered through the City Market, or Centre
Market, a historic market complex in downtown Charleston which was established
in the 1790s. The market stretches for four city blocks from the
architecturally-significant Market Hall, which faces Meeting Street, through a
continuous series of one-story market sheds, the last of which terminates at
East Bay Street. Vendors set up their 'kiosks' daily in these sheds and sell
souvenirs such as jewelry and Gullah sweetgrass baskets just as in earlier days
vendors sold beef and produce.
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| Rehabed apartment building at Battery Park |
After
traversing the full length of City Market, Clay and I reversed our course and
studied menus of various restaurants bordering the market. Knowing John and
Kristen would arrive in time for dinner, we'd hoped to have a destination in
mind for our evening meal. We headed back to the boat, showered, then departed
after a glass of wine just as J&K rounded the corner of the Maritime
Center. The four of us set off on foot again toward the downtown area and chose
AW Shucks for a casual dinner, entering the air-conditioned restaurant interior
by way of the porch where jetted machines spritzed diners for a misty, cooling
effect; we decided we'd rather have air conditioning!
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| Clay, Sally and son John |
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| A yacht club in Charleston |
Our
first overnight validated the comments from Looper friends that there's lotsa
motion in Charleston marinas. Clay and I had noticed the constant movement from
the time of our arrival, probably due to wind, current, and the busy-ness of
the harbor with tour boats, cruise liners, freighters and tows with barges.
And, many of these passing boats were BIG. Plus, we had little barrier between
us and them (no breakwall, few dock fingers, etc.) Knowing the three Logans
would well handle the motion, I armed Kristen, as precautionary, with sea bands
and ear plugs in hopes of a good night's sleep. John poo-poo'd the idea, but I
figured better safe than sorry! And, non-invasive...not gonna hurt anything.
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| The US19 bridge over the Cooper River |
Our
first morning walk (Wednesday), designed by Clay in the lead (well, Clay was
never really in the lead; he was just calling the shots on the route) took two
hours to complete a one-hour cardio. He was happy; me, hmmm, not so much. City
intersections don't make very good cardio routes; Clay challenged me to find a
more consistent path (Lookout buddy, I love a challenge!) We did manage to see
some of the business/retail district north of City Market. And, we stopped for
brochures and info at the Visitors Center. We circled by Harris Teeter for
bagels the size of tractor tires...which were large but not very tasty. Note to
self: Panera and Publix far surpass other bakers in the bagel department!
Our
boat guests had left for an early morning surf lesson on Folly Beach with a
rental car at their disposal, so Clay and I returned to an empty boat and a day
to plan. We opted to go our separate ways, with Clay destined for the Fort
Sumpter Museum on the waterfront just north of our marina while I stayed aboard
and did office work with a bit of housework thrown in for good measure. With
four aboard currently, clutter seems to accumulate rapidly. Later afternoon, I
poked my nose in a few shops on King Street, focusing on "Oops," a
catalog overstocks and irregulars retailer.
Leftovers
for dinner, we ate in shifts. As Clay and I finished our dinner and clean-up,
the surfers appeared for a later evening fine dining experience ('fine' dining
because they were eating their Savannah, GA Pink House (restaurant) leftovers
from the evening prior).
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| Pipes carrying water and ice to boats |
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| Maritime Centers ice plant and pneumatic delivery plant |
Our
dock finger of the Maritime Center marina serviced shrimp boats, boats wanting
to take on fuel and/or pump out, short-term transients, the Carolina Belle
excursion boat which makes frequent runs daily and fishermen out for their
morning and late afternoon catch. On our approach to the marina Tuesday, we'd
overheard radio conversation to the fact that the deck hand was going to
"blow out the line" in preparation for a shrimper due in soon.
Shortly thereafter and from our slip location, we heard a loud swooshing
clatter unlike any sound we'd heard before. The "line" previously
referenced was not a water line but rather an ice line probably 8" in
diameter thru which ice was blown to the shrimp boat. This marina houses a
unique three-story plant that manufactures ice on the top floor, weighs it on
the second floor, and blows it through a pipe from air compressed on the first
floor to accommodate the ice needs of the shrimp boats (Can you tell that this
previous line was Clay written? I would have no knowledge nor recollection of
such detail!). Hope that noise is only during daylight hours!
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| The fisherman that fished from our pier every day |
Speaking
of fishermen, an elderly black man appeared pre-dawn on his bicycle daily, set
up 'shop' on the pier and fished for dinner. He was pleased to host a photo op
when he nabbed a 4' sand shark that, along with grits, would be his evening
meal. I recalled our shark steak dinner Monday eve and was somewhat envious.
Gotta get Clay in fishing mode!
Thursday
morning's walking route was Sally-designed. And, it proved to be a more
consistent path along the waterfront with pretty scenery and few interruptions.
We passed by the marina's second dock finger which hosts the water taxi port
and a tourboat sailing vessel; the Fort Sumpter Museum; the Charleston
Aquarium; and a waterfront park which hosted a memorial to Ireland.
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| USS Yorktown flight deck |
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| Circumnavigaters Beverly and Tom on Half Moon |
Following
our walk and breakfast, Clay bought his $10 all-day water taxi ticket and
boarded the water taxi for a trip across the harbor to the naval aircraft
carrier, the USS Yorktown.
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| Half Moon (l) and SaSea Sally |
Appreciating my most-of-the-day to myself (kids had
yet again gone to Folly Beach to swim/sun/surf), I made the trek to the
you-meet-the-nicest-people-in-the-laundry room where I met Beverly (Half Moon)
where we shared stories of circumnavigation...me, of 10+ months of the Great
Loop on a trawler; and Bevery, of 20+ years of the world on a sailboat. Hmmm, I
wonder whose stories held more fascination? Yet, the similarity of our stories
was striking!
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| John Logan surfing |
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| Kristen surfing |
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| More surfing |
Completing
the laundry, I had a quick lunch onboard then anticipated jumping on my bike to
cruise a section of the
downtown peninsula and another stretch of King Street
only to be interrupted by son John calling from Kristen's phone that his phone
was AOL (as in missing). Why do we moms always get those kind of calls...the
high highs and the low lows? There was little I could do from afar (and with no
wheels) other than console, advise, pray that he find it, and offer to call his
number periodically. He and Kristen did everything right, which included having
the 'Find My Phone' app previously installed on the phone. Note to self:
Install said app on my phone!
I
biked the area I outlined and answered calls from Clay (he was home), from John
(still in search mode), then put in an appearance at H&M clothing store on
King Street. It was there that I found my July 4th shirt (blue and white) and
received a call that John's phone had been found by a good samaritan. Hooray!
And so thankful! Despite having insurance on the phone, finding it was high
priority as it held all of his vacation pictures. And he snaps photos just as
Clay does...frequently and sometimes even annoyingly.
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| Clay, Shap's faience Sue Reed, cousin Shap, Kristen, John & Sally |
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| Sue, Shap, Sally & Clay |
A
treat was in store Thursday evening as Clay had made plans for drinks aboard
the SaSea Sally and dinner with cousin Shap Shapleigh and his fiancee Sue Reed
at the Carolina Yacht Club. What fun we had getting acquainted with Sue, and
Clay, reacquainting with Shap. John and Kristen chose to join us, then excused
themselves from coffee and dessert at the CYC, opting instead to take a
Charleston Ghost Tour in the late evening hours. Dinner at the CYC was
delicious and festive, with a toast to the famiy reunion as well as to Shap and
Sue's upcoming wedding in early 2015.
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| Kristen boarding |
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| Beau Peterson on SaSea Sally |
Friday
saw the kids departing yet again for Folly Beach as we left for our morning
walk. Upon their return post lunch, we four made our way to the City Market and
to Palmettoville, a souvenir shop owned by a recent acquaintance from St.
John's Yacht Harbor who more-than-graciously gave us coupons for free tee
shirts, an enticement for us to shop in his store (which we did). We wandered thru
various other stores, then made our way
back to meet John's fraternity brother
and Columbia, SC resident Beau Peterson who wanted a tour of the boat, some
conversation, and then was joining John and Kristen for dinner. Storms were
brewing, so Clay and I opted to eat leftovers aboard...a wise choice when a
substantial downpour undoubtedly got the trio of young diners soaked. Bed came
matter of factly (as in abruptly...I'm done) for me when the continuing storms
produced an overabundance of wave action (and thus rocking action) and a
disconnecting internet connection. Had enuf! Going to bed!
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| Carolina Day colorguard |
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| Carolina Day parade |
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| Carolina Day parade |
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| Carolina Day parade |
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| Carolina Day parade |
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| Canon battery at Carolina Day Celebration |
Saturday
dawned, signaling a farmers market at Marion Square and Carolina Day
festivities (thanks, Shap, for the heads-up!), celebrating the Battle of
Sullivan's Island. The latter included a procession from Washington Park to
White Point Gardens where speeches, music, and the firing of cannons would
conclude the one-hour event. After getting separated on our routine morning
walk (a happening that bugs the heck out of Sal--raises her bp at least
multiple notches--and bothers not at all the 'separatee'), we decided to each
design our own morning routine. So, mounting bikes, Clay rode first to
Washington Park while I made a beeline for Marion Square. We each then vice versa'd,
then met up at the farmers market for lunch and for Clay to backpack the
cantaloupe home to the boat. My schedule caused me to rocket skyward (jumped at
least 8" high) when the first of numerous cannon firings occurred; man was
that loud, but fun! And, of course, I dashed off in search of the cannon post
where I could get a good shot or two of my own...camera shots, that is! Don't
know 'bout Clay, but I was happy with my morning design!
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| Horse and buggy at the Market in Charleston |
Clay
putz'd around the boat after noon while I biked more of the peninsula, then met
a solo John at City Market. Kristen had become the casualty of one-too-many
surf/wave rides and had presumably pulled a back muscle. I suggested the RICE
approach to nurse her aching back (well, at least rest, ice and ibuprofen...experience
is a terrific teacher, eh sister Sus?), then agreed to be companion to John for
the later afternoon browsing. Clay's cell call at 5:30 p.m., warning me of the
rapidly approaching storm (notice a trend here...these storms seem to always
approach rapidly!), had me pedaling at breakneck speed back to the boat, but
not before I took a quick peek at pix of John's night on the town the previous
evening. Apparently, my quick peek wasn't quick enough; I arrived 100 yards
from the boat when the first baseball-size drops started falling (well, maybe
ping pong ball size; nickel size?) They were HUGE and regardless of the rate of
the rainfall, the drops were big enough to soak me in record time. And, Clay
wanted my bike ONBOARD, not propped against the dock's bike rack. Really? Well,
that sealed the deal on both of us getting soaked! It was gonna be a two-shower
day for me...and probably for John as well.
Amazingly,
the clouds broke, and clearing skies allowed the sun to peek through. That gave
promise to a dry-clothing dinner at the Charleston Crab House where I'd made
reservations earlier for four, this being the last evening of Kristen and
John's vacation. Dinner for four became dinner for three with take-out for the
ailing surfer who continued to nurse her ailing back while watching movies on
her iPad.
Clay
and I fielded cell texts of the kids' timely SWA departure, homeward bound
Sunday morning, then climbed aboard our bikes for a long ride through the
retail and residential streets of Charleston. With Clay in the lead, we made
our way toward The Battery, then turned northwest toward the US Coast Guard
Station and the City Marina. I'm sure, as we pedaled past the City Marina, the
fact that joggers were passing us was due to Clay's trying to locate Looper
flags on the boats harbored there. Or? Nonetheless, with again dark gray clouds
dotting the skies above, we set our radar toward SaSea and wound our way home.
We completed a nice Sunday with grilled ground lamb burgers (a new fav of mine)
with asparagus and Trader Joe's rice medley.
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| Sally biking the Charleston Bridge over the Cooper River |
Sally and Clay opted for a side trip by bike to the huge suspension bridge carrying US17 over the Cooper River just north of 
the Charleston Maritime Center. This trip was 4-5 miles round trip including the gradual incline up to the bridge deck. From the center, signs indicated it was 1.25 miles to the end of the bridge! The view was fantastic.
Monday
was wrap-it-up day at the Charleston Maritime Center in prep for Tuesday's
departure, so it included such things as laundry, office/desk work, and a wash
job of the decks during the morning hours. The intensity and focus of the
morning's productivity allowed us to spend afternoon hours biking, at
Dockmaster Bob's suggestion, the suspension bridge. So fun! Note: John and
Kristen, make sure to include that activity on your next visit to Charleston!
We dined at the Noisy Oyster where I delighted in the citrus mango vinegarette
salad dressing and another glass of house wine which was really rather good,
while Clay devoured the grilled seafood platter. I think biking had made impact
on both our appetites!
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| Carnival Fantasy leaving Charleston |
Captain
Clay apprised the first mate of an 8:00 a.m. Tuesday departure from Charleston
with Georgetown, SC as our evening's destination. We finally departed at 9:20
a.m. from the pumpout station, with both pumping out and Clay's research on
Arthur as delays...and probably both worthy of the time spent. As we cruised
toward Georgetown, our thoughts turned toward both preparing for guests Johnny
and Audrey Roberts arrival as well as for tropical-storm-turning-hurricane
Arthur.
Most
of our Tuesday scenery after having left Charleston, some 70+ miles of it
today, was marshland as we tracked through the Santee River delta. We docked
late afternoon at Harborwalk Marina in Georgetown, SC and connected water and
electric; then I began my routine of washing both breakfast and lunch dishes
before starting dinner prep. To my amazement (and horror), the galley faucet
water began running green! Oh, this will not do. Dr. Seuss wrote of Green Eggs
and Ham; SaSea Sally writes of green water. His might have been edible, but
you're not gonna catch me drinking this stuff! Thanks, Jan Moore, for your
misery-loves-company comment that you've had likewise in your RV park due to
algae.
Later
afternoon I retrieved and processed our USPS mail scan from Tonya then prepped
for dinner at the River Room which came highly recommended by local tour boat
guide Fran and her hubby known as Captain Ron to the townsfolk. They were to
become instrumental in guiding us through upcoming Hurricane Arthur. 
Wednesday
morning Clay and I walked the pretty front street of Georgetown, then eagerly
and happily bid the Charleston folks goodbye and safe travels; my adverbs
describe our mental mindset at the time as we were soon to relocate in their
more-protected slip in prep for Arthur. We did what we could to further
prepare, attaching additional lines and fenders, retrieving potential
blow-aways from the fly bridge and deck, etc. We took some solace in the
Georgetown residents' laid-back attitude regarding the storm's potential
damage. Knowing our soon-to-board guests were in transit toward Harborwalk,
Clay encouraged Johnny and Audrey Roberts to take advantage of activities along
their route as SaSea Sally was in hurricane-wait mode and would not be
departing until Arthur did.
This
Wednesday being Clay's birthday and anticipating Roberts' dinnertime arrival, I
wandered downtown, poking my head in various shops in search of an appropriate
gift. After finding birthday candles at Tuck's General Store, I was geared toward
finding a bakery so Clay would at least be able to make a wish on a birthday
cake. Kudzu Bakery was a 'find' with whole and half-cakes, wines, sauces and
marinades, coffees, and refrigerator/freezer items to rival the Schwann's man.
No present, but armed with cake and candles, I made my way back to Harborwalk
to find Roberts' had detoured, giving Johnny a memorable Atlanta Aquarium
diving experience, but delaying their arrival by at least eighteen hours or so.
Plan B. Chip and Pat (Aerin E) became birthday celebrants as we set up our
party dockside in the shade cast by SaSea Sally. What wonderful friends these
two have become...a gift beyond measure, yet we knew not of such at this point
in time. Dinner out became dinner in as I defrosted our only remaining piece of
shark and added leftover grilled asparagus, white rice and pasta salad.
continue to treat the approaching hurricane as a non-event, but
nonetheless I was apprehensive. I'd never planned to ride out a hurricane
onboard, and I doubt Clay had such itemized on his bucketlist either. (Dave,
don't wanna join ya in this category, thank you!) As our morning walk ended,
Clay decided he needed to mingle with the townsfolk for an Arthur update at the
popular downtown breakfast nook called Thomas Cafe. Nothing new to report (good
news!) must have heightened Clay's appetite; he certainly dined on a hearty
breakfast fare which is often lacking from SaSea's galley.
With
Johnny and Audrey's arrival at noon, we joined them at Five Rivers Tavern for
lunch where we rode out the brunt of the storm. My table position allowed me a
birdseye view of the effects of Arthur, but only later did we realize that the
sheeting diagonal rain, bending trees and whipping leaves were the worst that
we were to experience. A big thank you to all of our friends and relatives who
expressed concern about our well-being. Arthur truly was a non-event in
Georgetown, SC, (it was offshore), but the anticipation was enough to last me a
lifetime! And, I will remember Roberts' as storm chasers of sorts; they arrived
in time for the hurricane. Don't know that I would have strived for such!
