The Adventures of SaSea Sally!: Marathon

March 4-11

Ok, well, let's see how good my memory is. I was halfway thru this email, and our current thunder/lightning storm made my numerous paragraphs disappear. Darn. Makes me recall our MSFT Office instructor at Stark Bros saying, "Save, save, save!" Never tho't it applied to emails, tho. Guess I'd best save, save, save!

The Little Shark River goes 2-3 miles into the Everglades and is 8-15' depths & federal channel markers. The mouth is in the distance.

North bank of the Little Shark River as it empties into the Gulf. The trees died after a hurricane blew all their leaves ff several years ago.

Our anchorage partner in the mouth of the Little Shark

The Little Shark River is in the heart of the Everglades National Park. Clay had traversed the Everglades Park in our 13' Whaler several times and was familier with much of this part of the park as he had camped on the beach for several days and stayed on park "chickies" (raised platforms with roofs) many other nights. There is a 3'+ tide in the Little Shark River, which has federal markers for the first 2 miles. Except at extremely low tide, there is no "land" in the southwest part of the Everglades Park where we stayed--only mangroves some other native trees. The trees lost their leaves in a hurricane several years ago which killed many of them.

Arriving at the mouth of Little Shark River mid-afternoon Monday after having left Naples and en route to Marathon, FL, Captain Clay toured upriver a bit in search of the perfect anchorage.

Taking clues from a fellow boater, we dropped anchor back 1/4 mile from the mouth without incident. Our location in the Everglades allowed no cell or internet reception, giving us the feeling of being cut off from the rest of the world. Kinda eerie. Soon late afternoon breezes came unexpectedly to a dead calm, and we were immediately invaded by a multitude of no-see-'ems. We quickly closed all of the doors and windows and started the generator as our air source. A sauna in the making without the generator!

Closest thing to land around the Little Shark River.

We were quick to close up (well, I was quicker than Clay), but the invasion had already occurred. No-see-'ems were biting with a vengance! Buggins (bug spray targeting no-see-'ems) to the rescue, but I kinda/really overdid the application. Kept the bugs away but about suffocated us with essence of Buggins! Next time (and there will be a next time) I'll remember that a little goes a long way.

During the night, my ears detected a crackling noise. Why is Clay able to sleep thru all of the during-the-night forCeign noises? I was unable to detect the source; I didn't try very hard vertically but tried very hard horizontally, which kept me awake and wondering for a very long time and unable to go back to sleep. I finally inserted bedside earplugs, endured a restless night and arose early which allowed us to pull anchor and be off at an early hour.

No walking in the Everglades--Nordic Tracking in the Gulf

I put in a half hour on the Nordic Track as we cruised along at our usual 8-9 mph rate (Clay has never been known for speed), taking in the sights of the waters off the Florida Keys. Noteworthy to both Clay and me were the large sea turtles we spotted off both the port and starboard sides. Fun spotting these creatures in their natural habitat!

Bass boats way out in the gulf!

Tiny sailboat in the gulf.

Cape Florida beach, the southern most part of mainland Florida

As we departed toward Marathon, we dodged thousands of crab pot floats. It was surprising that there were so many crab pots this far from civilization! Some folks were camped on the beaches where Clay camped in the Whaler a number of years ago. Quite a number of bass boats and small craft, including small sail boats were in the waters off the Everglades National Park too.

Happy First Mate

Have to go southsouthwest to Marathon. Key West would be westsouthwest from the Little Shark River.

We arrived at Sombrero Marina and were greeted by our new neighbors with an invitation to join them for cocktails, but allowing us time for Clay to rinse half the boat and me to acquaint myself with at least some of the amenities and services closeby. I find comfort in having at least some land familiarity. Ya never know when you might need something...quickly.

Along with the boats and various sea creatures including manatees, the first of which we saw here soon after our arrival--a 'family' of five huge, ugly creatures rolling over each other and surfacing frequently for air (making them mammals I guess--revisiting junior high science here).
In addition to the manatees, we had dauphins and other creatures.

School of dauphins at Boot Key Harbor

Boot Key Harbor resident with his "best friends"

Boot Key Harbor residents.

Around 250 boats of all kinds and shapes anchored at Boot Key Harbor.

The Boardwalk dock

Located on Vaca Key surrounding the Boot Key Harbor on all sides is the town of Marathon, Sombrero Marina was truly 'keysie,' offering a low-key, relaxed, laid-back atmosphere and a lifestyle far different from the Midwest. The SaSea Sally was docked with many other boats along a boardwalk (I use the term in the loosest sense of the word because it was a seaside walkway made of rough, weathered boards offering little of the elegance the term 'boardwalk' might bring to mind).

Dinghys scrambling to leave the Dockside Cafe before a storm.

Four slips away was Dockside Tropical Cafe, owned an operated by a female yoga instructor and her male musician companion. The open-air cafe housed a bar, dining space, a detached kitchen and bandstand, with a perimeter that dropped along one side into the sea without barrier of any sort. One drink too many and you might find yourself IN the drink

Margie (l), from Long Island and Jeri (r) from Coral Reefer

Glenn, Larry and Margie

The Dockside owners really had their methodology perfected for attracting a diverse and plentiful clientele. The restaurant/bar offered nightly entertainment 7-10 p.m. and a Sunday jam session for various musicians in the area. The music was diverse with a decibel-level considerate of dining patrons and resident boaters nearby--very nearby! Too, Sunday afternoon brought Charlie's Cheeses reps who set up a temporary retail 'shop' in the bandstand and sold delicious Pennsylvania cheeses. On three weekday mornings, the dance floor provided space for yoga enthusiasts wanting to meditate, flex, stretch, bend and strengthen.


The golf course at Sombrero

On Wednesday, our first full-day stay at Sombrero, Clay and I established our daily walking path by circling the golf course which happens to be the only one between Ocean Reef and Key West. Returning in time to take Kim's yoga class, I found her to be an extremely knowledgeable and caring instructor. Later in the day I did laundry and swam in the nearby pool while Clay did boat maintenance (mostly washing and removing rust stains on the deck from our funky bikes). We put those bikes to good use the next day, finding our way to the local Publix grocery store which was a convenient 5-minute ride each way (but 15 minutes on foot!) I have gotten accustomed to having no car and am very appreciative of those funky little rusted bicycles. We've even mastered the 'art' of hauling larger quantities of supplies on them. Backpacks and bungee cords are certainly handy and necessary. We've been alert to others' ways of transporting items, noticing various cart configurations, but Clay is still resistant to buying a cart. Go figure. Guess he thinks the challenge is good for my back and leg strength and for my balance because I usually get the heavier and bulkier loads; I'm always up for a challenge.

One way to get to your anchored boat

Clay and I nested in Marathon, establishing a routine of sorts while awaiting the arrival of friend Joe Weston who was to come aboard mid-week next for a week's cruise. Laundry, cooking, cleaning, socializing, swimming, walking, computer/desk/paper work, etc fell into comfort levels paralleling home life. Nice!

Jerry Webster (r) and his friend/neighbor Jeb.

Clay had earlier spent time locating friends from home who were to be in the Florida area in tandem with our presence here. Thursday afternoon, in a driving rainstorm, Jerry and Mel Webster arrived for a boat tour along with their friends (soon to be our friends, too!) Jeb and Linda. What a nice reunion we had despite the weather. Thanks, Jerry, for dinner at nearby Plaza Grill! Yum! Jerry bought our dinner upon recalling an incident at Two Rivers Marina whereby Clay's timely prompt kept Jerry's Pig Tails from potential disaster/sinking.

Melanie Webster (r) and her friend/neighbor, Linda

With our vessel docked bow in, our mount and dismount to and from the deck was highly impacted by the tides; the inexpensive plastic chairs we borrowed from the evening cocktail party stash worked short-term, but we felt compelled to visit nearby Home Depot on Friday in search of a 2- or 3-step ladder that would be stowable. Once we determined where to stow it (space on a boat is tight, you know), off we went. You can bet we (actually I) looked pretty funny with a 2-step lightweight aluminum ladder laced across the handlebars of my bike. But, mission accomplished, and I can guarantee that Mel, Linda and I would have appeared far more ladylike had we had the benefit of the ladder a day earlier.

On our agenda for Saturday was a widely-advertised Seafood Festival held in the park adjacent to Home Depot. Knowing we had leg-strength to make the distance, off we pedaled, arriving in time for more seafood choices than most local restaurants offered. We ate standing at long, paper-covered makeshift tables and enjoyed the live music on the immense stage nearby. Too, and of particular interest to most normal females, was a shopping opportunity! Vendors offered everything from jewelry and clothing items to foodstuffs and crafts. Even the men got 'into' shopping with nautical offerings and sun-protection apparel. Highly popular were the beer garden and wine tent. We encountered our new friends Jeb and Linda who were taking a day off from fishing to accommodate Linda's wish to attend the festival; the stiff winds helped Jeb make that decision.

Clay recovering after his "buzz"

Daylight Savings Time started Sunday which gave a late start to our day. After our normal morning routine of walking and breakfast, I biked to Publix while Clay met with a fellow boater, Hans, for an East Coast orientation. We ate a late lunch then I retreated to the pool for some swimming and reading time. I returned 'home' to find Clay prepping supplies for his first Sally's Salon haircut. With only a middle-school buzz cut for John in my repertoire of haircutting, I poured a glass of wine (gave me courage and Clay...fear?) and attacked the head of hair before me, figuring that Clay wears a hat most of the time anyway! Finishing up and feeling highly successful, I went out on the bow of the boat and offered haircuts to any and all of the men gathered on the boardwalk. I had no takers; imagine that!

Sunday night's Jam Session at Dockside featured bands on the hour, each with its own style and 'curb appeal.' As we sat down to a yummy grilled salmon and zucchini dinner onboard following the early eve haircut, Clay and I both noted the 8-9 p.m. time slot was filled with a band singing off-key. For those of you who know Clay's singing ability, you know the band's rendition of "I've Got a Brand New Pair of Rollerskates" had to be bad for Clay to notice just how bad! Musta been an off night for them.

Monday's highlight was a 5:30 p.m. gathering of the boardwalk boaters for a pot luck supper. Now who eats dinner at 5:30 p.m.? I managed to squeeze in yoga, a swim, a bike ride to a nearby post office, and a quick stop at the grocery store for balsamic chicken supplies while Clay worked on the boat's alarm system with a marine electrician. Other misc tasks filled the day which basically ended at 5:30 p.m. with the supper commencing. Was a nice eve which I'm sure Clay particularly enjoyed as he had a smorgasbord of food items from which to choose.

Realizing on Tuesday that I'd rather swim than boat to the harbor entrance to refuel, I approached a fellow boater Larry to recruit him for a boat ride with Clay if he was willing. With that request, we hit the bonus round! Larry said you can work a deal directly with the diesel truck for delivery to the marina if enough gallons made it worthwhile for the trucker/company. BINGO! Not only does the process cut out the middleman, making it cheaper, but so convenient! I went to swim (yay!) while Clay polled fellow boaters to gather diesel needs to about the 600 gallon mark. Kudos to all concerned! And thanks, Larry!

Dockside's stage, the scene of some good music and some crappy music

Dockside hosted a customer appreciation day Tuesday so as to accommodate a kitchen upgrade without their diners and bar hoppers having to compromise plans. Dollar beer, happy hour prices on mixed drinks and wine, free buffet (sub sandwich wedges, chips, etc) and $5 burgers made many patrons very happy.

Dockside customer appreciation day

Our friend Joe Weston was due to arrive Wednesday for a week stay after his Tuesday overnight in the Islamorada area. Plans had been made for his friend Suzanne to drive him to Marathon on Wednesday, provide us transportation for provisioning, join us for lunch or dinner, then be off, leaving Joe as our guest. Murphy's Law. Joe called Tuesday, telling us his friend, Suzanne, had fallen out of bed and was now returning from the ER sporting a broken collarbone. Pain meds. No driving. Time for Plan B. So Clay spent the better part of two hours researching Keys' transportation along Highway US 1. No worries, Joe!

Will fill you in on the details of his arrival and our week with Joe in my next email. Until then, Happy Easter! We hope you have a wonderful celebration.