St. Johns River, November 9 - 15, 2014

November 9 - 15, 2014



With Thanksgiving a recent memory and Christmas nearing, I realize I have never emailed our St. Johns River saga. So, with wishes for a very Merry Christmas and the happiest of New Years 2015, the following paragraphs are designed for your reading pleasure (if you can squeeze in a few minutes reading time in this busy holiday season):
Believe me when I say Clay and I have gotten to know each other pretty darn well over these past fourteen months aboard, not to mention the almost-thirty-six years we've been married. A Mainship 430 offers close quarters, so a heartfelt thanks to all of my female friends who have listened to me vent. I've frequently said, "This would be a good job if it paid." (Not sure why I get all of the grunt work!)

Dah Dah, I know where Clay's curiosity comes from! I'm not particularly curious by nature, but Clay is cut from an entirely different mold! No area goes unexplored; no sign, unread.

And, when I watch Clay at the helm, I can picture Daddy Dad with his calm demeanor, his keen observation, and his ability to fix almost anything. On a boat, those are all good qualities to have.

Clay readily nixed my idea to enjoy a week at Ortega Landing, deciding instead to explore the St. Johns River in this time before the boat is pulled (on Monday, November 17) for the 1000-hour check, bottom painting and routine maintenance work while we are home for the holidays.

As we depart Ortega southbound, I've been told we're on alligator watch! And, we're gonna be on alligator watch all week. Manatees, too! The St. Johns River is notorious for such. We have a whole new set of navigational maps in which I have no interest. In my heart, I'm still swimming laps and sunning (well, sheltered sunning) at the Ortega pool. Other than knowing we're heading south, I know little about the upcoming week. Oh, and that we're gonna be launching and using the dinghy; that's a good thing because a) we've not used it enough to justify it occupying our entire stern patio deck; b) we've not used it enough to justify Clay's having purchased it; c) the springs which we will be exploring offer depths less than 4' where SaSea won't go but the dinghy will!

Six hours cruising in an overcast chill landed us at the free dock in Palatka, FL. Gone from electricity and water, security, pool, laundry, familiar faces and surroundings to this free dock. You can tell what kind of a happy camper I'm not. It's a poor substitute! But the sun set on a cute waterfront landscape complete with a clock tower as we grilled the last piece of our grouper, asparagus and jasmine rice. When disappointment mounts, at least make your tummy happy! And news of Walter winterizing our pipes at 417 made my day! Thanks, Walter!

Twenty miles cruising Monday took us to the Acosta Creek Marina with daylight to spare, the time Clay spent unboxing and assembling our replacement bikes. We were thankful for recycling bins, a cheerful dockmaster/owner, and a hard-packed dirt road 0.4 miles long to accommodate our Tuesday morning walk. We were out in the Boonies! Oh, and we were still on alligator watch!

Awakening Tuesday morning, I realized I truly had no idea where I was...don't know that Clay did either. I waited in line to cycle a slim laundry load (on the honor system, throw your 3-quarters each wash and dry in the plastic cup) at this gem-in-the-road rural complex of boats/RV's/private home/weekly-room-rentals. Folks were friendly, and the sun was shining! And informative...we're in Welaka, FL...or the outskirts thereof.  Little did I know what Clay had in store for today! A ten-mile-diameter Lake George formed in the distance and awaited our exploration as we departed, followed by a flock of swooping gulls. I felt like I was living Alfred Hitchcock's "The Birds." We set anchor early afternoon, launched the dinghy which started after another 393 moment, and went off to explore Silver Glen Springs where water was crystal clear and a constant 72-degrees. This was purported to be a manatee haven, but none did we see. Still no gators either.

We pulled anchor after nesting the dinghy without incident and literally motored into the sunset as darkness threatened. Ooooo, this was not looking good for daylight anchoring. We found 'Tom's Favorite Anchorage' (one of many so notated on the map) soon after passing through the cattle-gate exit to points south. Well, SaSea didn't like Tom's Favorite Anchorage; our anchor wouldn't catch (a warning frequently voiced on the St. Johns). So, off we went in the pitch black (Sally wasn't happy; truth-be-known, Clay probably wasn't happy either) to anchor at another of Tom's Favorite Anchorages where the anchor caught, and the bugs played in bulk around our flashlight beams as the rays directed our anchoring. We were anchored South of Astor, FL. Another good dinner of grilled salmon, romaine and baked potatoes, my goal was to use up the supply of foodstuffs prior to going home.

We've been on alligator watch since leaving Jacksonville Sunday morning. It's now Wednesday morning; I don't think there are any alligators in this St. John's River. I kept asking Clay if we are having fun yet; he assured me we are! We were in slowwww manatee zones which mandate slowwww speed. So we traveled at slowwww speed to arrive on Lake Monroe mid-afternoon at Monroe Harbour Marina. As dockhand Allan caught our lines, he enthusiastically reported we were in Sanford, FL (under his breath, 'of Trevon Martin fame'). Our Florida road map (thanks, Randy Schmitt) revealed the bigger picture that The Villages were nearby. The big hoopla rec for dinner was a German restaurant, but we, by choice, ended up at the Breezeway Restaurant which was rec'd by a boating couple on their way back from dinner, presumably at the Breezeway. Our fish tacos (Sal) and pork roast special (Clay) dinners were topped by our delightful, upbeat waiter who was well-deserving of a 20% tip!

Thursday morning, after a refreshing walk along the lake, we turned north toward Jacksonville, still on the prowl for gators, but having seen mostly/only Uncle Woody's Henrietta birds (what are they, Woody?) and wasps. Yep, as our friends up north were dealing with snowflakes and dropping temperatures, we were dealing with wasps. We were lucky to have warmer temperatures today; even yesterday was nice. Day before, not so much. We took four days to get to Sanford; Clay had allocated only three to get back to J'ville by Sat eve. I don't think Clay had plans for stopping points--just keep on keepin' on until DST's darkness settles on us. And, remember, we can't go very fast due to manatee zone restrictions and nasty land people who get even nastier if we make even minimal wake.

On this particular Thursday, it was a 4 p.m. conference call commitment that had us anchoring mid-afternoon at Morrison Island, South Astor, FL. It was a familiar anchorage to us, having anchored here just two days earlier...in the dark with an audience of white birds in a nearby tree which were illuminated in my flashlight beam. Sure 'nuf, the white birds started landing in that same nearby tree just as the sun set. Such an intriguing sight...I wonder what draws these birds to this particular tree repeatedly? We ended the eve with grilled lamb chops, zucchini and a miscellaneous mix of carbs from the frig/freezer; as mentioned, we're attempting to use up our appliance's stash before next week's departure home.

Friday's travel was a five-hour trek to Murphy's Creek. With the Palatka, FL free dock nearby, we opted to anchor and to enjoy another evening of camping on the river. Complete with a terrific dinner of both grouper and sea bass (we split our entrees), jasmine rice (I seem to be hooked on jasmine rice), and leftover grilled greens, we added a bit more protein to the meal with an invasion of white-winged  bugs which undoubtedly made their way into our bellies. Yuk! But, in the many years of FiJi camping where the evening meal was prepared in total darkness, I've become somewhat accustomed to adding a bit of protein in this manner. Never liked it...but it is what it is!

I slept like a rock Friday night with earplugs in place, then awakened to a 43-degrees chilly morning. Our Mainship 430, like most trawlers, has no insulation in the hull, so the outside temp is the inside temp unless forces are applied (shore power/generator). Clay was quick to stoke up the generator lest he be 'blessed' with an unhappy, purple first mate! I kept informing the captain that, as long as the pros outweigh the cons, I'm in for the long haul. Well, this morning, the cons seemed to be accumulating in quantity to cause my oft-voiced saying, "This (first mate) would be a great job if it paid!"

We pulled anchor early and geared toward Jacksonville with a long day ahead. Clay must have been tiring of the routine (bored) as he spent much of the morning talking on the cell to friends afar. He simply had to catch up on the lives of friends Frank and Georg (who are now racing cars), Bill (who is in hunting mode), Randy (who is enduring shoulder problems), and others on his Saturday morning call list. Hugs to all of you! It's nice to make new friends, but we miss our gold friends!

Arriving Jacksonville, Ortega Marina mid-afternoon, we found that dockmaster Shawn had saved our spot. So, we snugged in D172 and prepared for the long walks ahead...to the grocery store, the laundry room, the check-in office, etc. We'd collected a full week's worth of laundry, so I targeted the laundry room (who does laundry on Saturday evening? so the machines were available!), and struck up a delightful conversation with a hot-tubbing lone sailor while Clay finalized his letters of instruction to maintenance folks involved in completing the paint job and the engine check on SaSea Sally in our absence over the holidays.

Just to update you. We will vacate the boat Monday morning (November 17) when they pull it at nearby Huckins Boat Yard (that'll be an early morning trek, albeit a short one). After a brief survey by Clay, we'll be 'on-call' for a couple of days before flying home on Wednesday, November 19th for the holidays. Being land-based in Jacksonville with be quite a change, with overnights in a motel and a rental car available until departure on Wednesday. So, on that note, I bid you a fond farewell until we reconnect mid-January upon our return to the Looping experience.

St Mary's GA to Ortega Landing, November 6 - 9, 2014

November 6 - 9, 2014

Armed with knowledge to combat tides, DST and shoaling this gray and humid Thursday morning, SaSea Sally departed Lang's Marina East in St. Marys, GA, at a bright and early (for us) 8:15 a.m. Note: Just being 'armed' doesn't insure our safe passage. We crossed the Georgia-Florida 'line' and entered Florida waters, cruising seven hours to arrive at the Metropolitan Park Marina in Jacksonville. Without dock help, it was an ugly landing. I freaked out as we pivoted around the spring line pivot point and wedged into the dock slip on a diagonal. But all was righted in due time, and 'no one was hurt.' (Lady's Island friend Steve always says, "If no one was hurt, it was a good landing.") In like manner, most of us women non-drivers-exept-when-called-into-service say, "We could dock this boat. It might not be pretty, but we'd get her docked! NOTE: Clay said the spring line's purpose is to serve as a pivot point. Maybe that's why I don't like spring lines!

Only because we've docked here before did I know (kinda) where I was. This location brings back memories of friends Kerwin and Barb Rohr who traveled this area with us some months ago. Following dinner, I amazed myself staying up as late as I did this Thursday night. Telephone tag and catch-up phone conversations made dinner late and a shower even later. What sane female washes, dries, and styles (kinda) her hair at 9 p.m.? Only the one who has boated a full day of wind and weather which started with no-see'ums biting her scalp! Idiotic, but necessary!

Each morning of the past 14+ months, I lie in wait until the light dawns as to where I am and how the boat is positioned (starboard or port tie or anchored). I won't get up until I have those things figured out. Heaven forbid the day I can't figure it out; Clay would be crewless!!!!!

Clay chose our early-this-morning walking route, probably because he had heard there is 'civilization' nearby (promoted in one of his guidebooks in the form of restaurants, shops, etc.), and we were clueless as to how that was possible. We were at one of Jacksonville's municipal marinas, quite near the football/baseball stadium which hosted the FL/GA game only the previous weekend. There was evidence of tailgate partying along our route as we stepped among baubles, bangles, beads, and of course candy wrappers, discarded cups, bottles and trash of various sorts. I perked up as we approached a huge building, sniffing a pronounced aroma of coffee. The Maxwell House/Kraft factory, where coffee beans are roasted, ground and packaged, guaranteed a smile on my face and a spring in my step; I swear the aroma was so intense that I absorbed caffeine thru my skin! Sus, here was Lucy Swindoll's 'little pop of joy' for today!

Returning to the boat for a quick bite of breakfast, we launched quickly (and easily) for the 9 a.m. bridge opening to Ortega Landing. As we crossed under the bridge, we encountered our friends Jim and Belinda (Rickshaw); the eagerness in our arm waves and enthusiasm in our voices over the radio conveyed our delight in meeting. So near, yet so far. Belinda highlighted some of their week on the St. Johns River which was upcoming for us; nice to be armed with some first-hand knowledge.

Ortega was an easy hour cruise where we were docked before 10 a.m. Nice to have the day ahead and plenty of tasks to fill the day. Because the cupboard was bare, grocery shopping was high on our list of priorities. But not before a lap swim (heated pool, thank goodness), a shower and two laundry loads (also high priority). At check-in dockmaster Shawn briefed us on the activites ahead of us this party weekend (we'd picked a good time to dock at Ortega), so my grocery list was amended to accommodate Friday night's carry-in/surprise birthday party. 

Saturday's morning walk in bright and beautiful sunlight circled us over both St. Johns River bridges and back to Ortega by way of a nautical flea market where Clay did the shopping...and buying...a deal on diapers. Yep guys and gals, boats wear diapers! Breakfast was late which made lunch late which made dinner late this day (Sus, we're on your schedule!) Interspersed between meals I managed to swim (a productive time-killer awaiting an available washing machine), to cycle a wash cycle, to hang in lieu of a dry cycle (a festive boat decor...I use the term 'festive' loosely!), to lunch with Clay at nearby Panera (by now it's 3 p.m. and Clay's tummy was none-too-happy), to squeeze in a bit of shopping, then to pick up/pack up/put away before late dinner leftovers. Weird day!

Sunday was drop dead morning for our Dahon bikes. Kinda reminded me of the Sound of Music words: "So long, farewell...Goodbye!" We had heaved the two new boxed bikes aboard (affordable, certainly not Dahons) and stowed them in the fly bridge for later assembly. It was kinda bittersweet as we deposited our bikes for recycling/disposal. That done, we departed Ortega, bound for adventure on the St. Johns River.

More later as we hunt alligators on the St. Johns.

Brunswick and St Mary's Georgia, October 31 - November

October 31 - November

The biggest catamaran I've seen!!!

We awakened Halloween morning at the Crescent River anchorage, a midpoint of sorts between Savannah and Brunswick, GA. I was entertained by jumping fish as I Nordic Tracked this morning, the splashes (which reminded me of the Potomac River firing ranges through which we navigated) reflecting in the brilliant sunlight. Why do fish jump? Just wondered. 

White caps in Brunswick Landing Marina

Clay's original plans to anchor out two nights before going ashore at Brunswick Landing were thwarted by the approaching weather front. A dramatic drop in temps coupled with predicted gale force winds forced a change of plans...ours as well as a myriad of other transient boaters! Thus, we pulled anchor mid-morning and motored toward Brunswick Landing Marina where harbormaster 
Sherry directed our fueling, pumping out and docking. Sherry had quite a commanding presence! With a hearty welcome, she extended an invitation for the evening's Halloween chili cook-off. 

Dockmaster Sherry on left!

David and Susan from Park City UT

Chili cookoff party!

Brunswick Landing Marina extended a full fifteen docks running perpendicular to shore and thus occupied extensive water frontage. Transient boaters were nested at Dock 1; it was a full ten-minute walk to the clubhouse between Docks 9 & 10 where we arrived for the Halloween Hoopla. Absent costumes, we happily welcomed some Mardi Gras beads to pull us into the circle of festivity. I made note of easy-to-assemble costumes for future reference, taking special note of a couple of pirates with "I've got that in my boat" costume parts. Introductions, a time-filler and crowd-pleaser, were made by an un-costumed Sherry (I guess she was dressed as a harbormaster?) Hearing 'Dragonfly,' Clay and I quickly made our way across the room to the pirates who we now recognized as our friends from Park City. Yep, Barb Newman, we crossed paths again with David and Susan.  

The anticipated front blew in overnight Friday night. Layered to combat the increasing winds and chill, I walked solo Saturday morning then shifted into homemaker mode and headed to the transient boaters' laundry room. We were a hale and hardy bunch, we women who crowded into theunheated facility and took courteous turns cycling our clothing. At this point, I would have to add

Brunswick has had some MAJOR storms!!!

bungee cords to a 'most-useful list' which would also include WD-40 and duct tape; strategically placed bungee cords secured my clean items in the basket as winds which now approached 40 mph whipped around me. 

As I passed Sherry's dockmaster hut, she brightly informed me expectations were for 53 mph winds later evening. Oh joy! This was as she pointed out the white caps on the fairways; for you non-boaters, marinas are designed as shelters from the wind, not to capture it and direct it down the fairways. Dressed in running tights, fleece, windbreaker, ski cap, hood and gloves, I had to remind myself this is Georgia, November 1.

Boiled Peanuts!!!

You're down south--selling boiled peanuts

The old movie theater

Beautiful park in Brunswick

Clay and I had braved the weather to give business to the nearby Saturday farmers market, purchasing some (more) Avon Skin So Soft and a couple pounds pecan halves. Feeling charitable, and knowing I had no kitchen elf to roast the pecans for me, I set about the task in tandem with a crock pot roast for dinner. Oh my! I was soon overwhelmed by the crowded galley with no counterspace available to do my 'thing.' With even greater clarity, I understood why my SaSea Sally Recipe Book, which is a collection of minimal-number-ingredients-and-healthy recipes I compiled prior to departure, has laid untouched in the galley drawer. By dinner's end, I was hot and burned out, so off I went to see what Dock 15 looked like in the dark. Not much to see in the dark, but security saw, and stopped, me. That was a good thing!

Street scape

Sunday, marking the start of Daylight Savings Time, was windy and cold, but sunny. The weather forced another day tied to shore for us and for most of the other boaters heading south for the winter. As such, Monday was a busy departure day with an early parade of boats lined up for fuel and pumpout at our Dock 1. 

We found ourselves traveling tandem with new acquaintances Greg and Donna
(Lady In Red), a bonus as were to encounter many shoaling areas in this stretch of waterway. Safely through these shallow waters some hours later, SaSea Sally and Lady In Red joined a round-up of other boats anchored at Cumberland Island

Passing under the Brunswick GA bridge

for the chilly night ahead. It was alarming how early nightfall came with DST upon us; we'll have to make note and plan appropriately in the days to come! I'm finding Clay seems to be losing his enthusiasm for planning travel; we seem to be 'flying by the seat of our pants' or 'winging it,' reactive rather than proactive!

Tuesday's destination following an easy anchor retrieval was St. Marys, GA, home to one of America's submarine bases.  The channel into the base was dredged to 45'--guess they don't want to ding one of those 15 blade props!  The sub base has huge car ports to keep the subs under cover so spy satellites can't get a picture of them.

Hercules plant in Brunswick GA

We arrived in St Mary's one short hour later and were directed to Lang's Marina East. The obvious state of disrepair here brought to mind my basement laundry room where is mounted a craft show plaque, "What's a nice girl like me doing in a place like this?" I didn't even ask for the bath/shower room key, and security was non-existent. Lang's offered no Wi-Fi, so we tapped into our Verizon hot spot just as we do at anchorages. Soon, Clay interrupted to drag me along to explore the town which obviously had a lot more going for it, but my heart was crying for some space (translation: 'me' time). So, following lunch we parted company, with Clay exploring more of the town's offerings while I went for a walk then busied myself with projects aboard SaSea Sally.

Horse on Cumberland Island

As I mentioned, 'our' planning seems more reactive than proactive. And Wednesday was evidence of such. The tides schedule (hadn't researched it prior to Wednesday morn) coupled with DST and shoaling forced us to stay put another day. All in all, not a bad change of plans. We were starting to like this little town (the marina, still not so much). Lang must be/have been someone important here; lotsa stuff named for Lang! And, the grant monies that have flowed into the downtown district (lighting, sidewalks, seating/benches, parks, etc.) are considerable! Someone here thinks enough of the town to make things happen.

Coast Guard patrol boat in Cumberland Sound

Deciding to eat dinner at Lang's Marina Restaurant, Clay and I had opportunity to dress in cooler weather clothing. I can't believe how dressed up I felt in skinny jeans, a black tank, gray sweater and small hoop earrings (still no make-up or cologne)! I think Clay opted to wear a long-sleeved fishing shirt instead of a short-sleeved one, his concession to the chillier weather. I emphasize here that boaters don't worry too much about 'looks.' And we've become them...a whole 14+ months now. But, on this evening, I did have the feeling that I was dressed in 'real clothes.'

As we depart St. Marys Island Thursday morning (November 6), preparing to cross the GA/FL line into Florida, we bid you a fond farewell, with at least one or two more email editions to come before we head home for the holidays on November 19th!