Hilton Head to Crescent River Anchorage, GA, October 26 - 30, 2014

October 26 - 30, 2014

El Galeon Andalucia

A relatively short, easy cruising day on Sunday gave us an early afternoon arrival time at Skull Creek Marina, friend George Holske's suggestion for overnight docking on Hilton Head Island. George and Carolyn arrived later afternoon for wine and companionable conversation which continued over dinner on the dining deck of nearby Skull Creek Boathouse where we all chose the crab and shrimp quesadillas; not huge portions, but they were quite sufficient for our appetites. 

At City Docks in Savannah GA

The Boathouse's outdoor torches warded off any wayward bugs, so our open-air dining was delightful. But the marina sported no bug deterrent of any sort. And, the marsh location was breeding ground for once again those pesky no-see'ums! I'm getting good use of Avon's Skin So Soft, Cutter Skinsations (thanks, Cathy and Chris, for this suggestion), and LaCrosse Lumber's Buggins.

Although the price was right for another overnight at Skull Creek Marina, the marshland bugs nixed the idea; so, off we went 

El Galeon, NO GO, & SaSea Sally

Monday morning with sights set on the City Dock of Savannah, GA, where we arrived 2:00'ish p.m. As we scouted out the 'lay of the land (actually water)' prior to docking, we found that the short span of face dock to which we were to tie sported a170-foot long, 500 ton ship called the El Galeon Andalucia which left little room for transient boaters such as us. The El Galeon, carrying an all-Spanish crew of 25 sailors, was a touring vessel opening its doors for public touring through the weekend.

Serious levee work!!!

A note from a Google search: "El Galeón Andalucía was featured in the NBC series Crossbones starring John Malkovich as the legendary pirate Blackbeard which aired this summer. The ship spent three months in Puerto Rico where the series was filmed. Now, as the ship travels north along the Eastern coastline, sponsored by the National Air, Sea and Space Foundation, El Galeón brings the spirit of discovery and exploration to visitors who are allowed to tour five of the seven decks. When you step aboard the ship it’s like traveling back in time 500 years to experience for yourself what it was like to explore the new World." (You can imagine the sheer numbers of people, especially school children and families, will be drawn to this attraction during the time of our stay!)

Must have been a field on the other side of the levee

But it was in our way! And, it certainly interrupted our Plan A for a smooth docking experience.

NO MO departing down the Savannah River

The Port of Savannah is very, very busy

Thankfully, a fellow trawler captain noted our plight and issued an invitation to  raft to his NO MO (a Mainship 350 trawler from New York) until the lunch crowd of one runabout departed to make room for us to dock. In our previous visit to Savannah, SaSea Sally had docked at a private dock on Wilmington Island; so this location was a new experience. Strong currents, a nine-foot tide and heavy commercial traffic made docking along the city bulkhead difficult. Clay, with the help of the fellas aboard NO MO, handled the relocation beautifully. We were immediately awestruck by the sheer size of the massive container ships which passed by us up close and personal. We could literally almost reach out and touch these ships which approximate the size of two or three city blocks at least 100-150' tall.

Tug at the fleeting service

Savannah skyline

Savannah skyline

We had easy access to all that Savannah offered in exchange for constant motion, constant sightseers, constant noise, and signage communicating the message that payment was required which I am told most boaters ignore. But I'm Bob Tull's daughter (June's, too), and honesty prevails. So off Clay and I went in search of the City Garage where the Traffic and Mobility Office gal, who looked at us rather quizzically, was receptive to taking our money but relatively ignorant of the details. The form which I completed did state rules, among them: Boaters will refrain from discharging blackwater or greywater. Now blackwater ("sewage") I can understand; but greywater ("residues from washing processes")...really? What's that I just said about honesty? Honestly, there's are direct pipes from the sinks and showers to the water beneath us. Calgon! Captain NO MO said, "I guess they don't want the water any cleaner than it already is." Har har har!

Lots of groups at the warf.

As the day dawned Tuesday, I had the thought that we were awakening to another day in Paradise if only we didn't have to deal with the real world. Just sayin'. This living on a boat doing the Great Loop has become a lifestyle. For initially fearing nothing to do aboard, I find myself plenty busy; and having found ways to fill my free time, I find myself resentful when that bit of free time is taken away! 

Ship departing at night

During our stay in downtown Savannah, we poked around a few shops which were mostly souvenir shops along River Street; we admired yet again the beautiful gardens, squares,  and architecture of this historic city; we exchanged conversation with shore people during the times we found ourselves on the fly bridge or grilling dinner aboard; and we went about the routine and mundane tasks of everyday life...paying bills and processing mail, cleaning, cooking, planning navigation routes...but we were enjoying a much warmer climate than that of our friends back home in Missouri! Nothing remarkable here but for the fact that we're in one of the most beautiful cities in the United States, being entertained by squeaks, moans, groans, thumps, and whines associated with docking here. (You can imagine how much sleep I'm getting...not.) 

Note the vehicles way up on deck

Alert to the strong current, Clay planned Wednesday's departure time for slack tide (noon), a practice that has served us well in past days. 
 
Needing eyeglasses repair, our schedule allowed a morning hike to the only optical business listed in downtown Savannah, only to find the business gone. Even here in Savannah there are businesses and services that simply can't survive when the residential population moves out of the downtown area. 

Clay was quick to find Plan B for repair at our next destination, Steve and Beth Westgate's private dock which hosted us some four months ago. We were anxious to see progress on their new home which was in the framing process as we passed through this area going north.

General Steve and Beth Westgate's new home

Beautiful home inside!

We singled the lines around noon, smoothly pulled away from downtown Savannah City Dock, cruised toward Turner Creek and docked two hours later at Westgates' private dock. With much of the late afternoon available to us, we geared up for a hearty twenty-minute walk to the retail complex where Clay's glasses were easily repaired. Spying a nearby ACE Hardware, Clay couldn't resist the urge to shop for a few hard-to-find items while I puttered around the gift section realizing that the holiday season will be soon upon us! Oh, it's already here? We returned to the boat by way of the Publix Grocery Store, a favorite of ours, where the deli offered a dinner too good to resist. Lip-smacking, crispy, greasy fried chicken and onion rings were Clay's #1 pick; Sally's Galley doesn't present such gastric treats for Clay, even if he is the captain.  Less cooking translated to an uninterrupted viewing of Game 7 of the World Series. Didn't like that outcome!

Ship at Thunderbolt Marina

Ship at Thunderbolt Marina

Lots of Georgia marshes.

Thursday morning before departure Builder Bob gave us an extensive tour of the Westgates' new home into which they will move in two short weeks! Wow, that was a fast construction project! From the obvious pride in Bob's voice as he pointed out detail after detail, we quickly assessed that Builder Bob had put his heart and soul into the outcome of this home project for his friend Steve. Impressive! Returning to the boat only emphasized the magni-tude of the Westgate home and the mini-tude of the SaSea Sally. 

Geared up for noon departure, we soon headed out of Turner Creek toward the ICW southbound. We spent a long day cruising to arrive at the Crescent River anchorage shortly after 6 p.m. As we dropped anchor, the gypsy (anchor chain pulley) unexpectedly slipped which it has been known to do of late; I threw the lock as the chain went slip-sliding away, then looked questioningly at Clay positioned at the helm for affirmation of job well done. Did I do the right thing? Yep. Oh yay! An atta girl! Oh by the way, the gypsy is on Ralph's fix-it list for Jacksonville!

As we stoke up the Magma grill for pork chops and romaine grilling, we bid you a good eve with a promise of more newsy notes from SaSea Sally as our journey progresses.

Lady's Island/Beaufort, SC, October 23 - 26, 2014

October 23 - 26, 2014

Beaufort Eagles bus

As we chugged into the harbor of Lady's Island Marina, we quickly found new dockmaster TJ to be cute, personable, warm, welcoming, knowledgeable and cautious. We slid into a temporary slip until more favorable tides (slack tide) allowed us to reposition for the three-night duration of our stay. TJ assured me that he'd find plenty of folks to crew for Clay as I took off for lap swimming at the City Pool. Post-swim (it was wonderful and a bargain at $3 senior fee!), I arrived back at a relocated SaSea Sally to find it had taken Captain Clay four tries to get her repositioned; so glad I missed the stress of that move!

Fill'n Station Pork chop dinner - $6

Dinner was an easy decision with Clay eager for the Fillin' Station's Wednesday night pork chop dinner ($6) and my willingness to eat up some of our frig's leftovers. Neither my brain nor my digestive system desired deep-fat-fried pork chops! A joyous ending to the day to have dinner an easy fix and to be 'home' of sorts on Lady's Island!

$10 Ribeye Steak dinner

On Friday's docket: lap swimming, bathroom cleaning, absentee ballot notarizing, bicycle riding (which resulted in a no-brainer decision that we need new bikes), and ribeye steak dining at the Fillin' Station with many of our near-and-dear friends. We had a crowd rally for the $10-a-plate steak, baked potato and corn dinner. Realizing the sheer numbers of folks who would also rally for the steak special, marina dockmaster Steve (who alternates with TJ) has fine-tuned his approach for Friday dining; Steve collects reservations, $10, and

Westminster College grad at the "Fill'n Station"

rare/medium-rare preferences during the day, then heads over to the restaurant to submit our order and get a head start on happy hour before the rest of our crowd arrives. Steve's timing is pretty good as well it should be; he's had plenty of Friday nights' practice!

A note on our vintage bikes...our Dahons are dated (old); they sport a golden patina (rust); and it has become quite apparent that they are no longer cost-effective to fix nor safe to ride. As I added bikes to our shopping list, Clay was even quicker to boot up Craig's List, Jacksonville, FL to search for options. We'll see how this plays out. Just as Mother Nature has been hard on our hair/skin, so has she worked her 'magic' on our bikes. Reality check here as we realize the bikes are truly not safe to ride.

Beaufort "Eagle" painted on the stadium lot.

Saturday morning early, I found myself sitting not only on the toilet seat, but  in an overflowing toilet bowlful of water. Yuk! What a rude awakening! Clay explained the phenomenon's potential cause as a leaking solenoid. Thankful that I'd just yesterday cleaned the bathroom and thankful that the bathroom floor has a drain (as does the adjacent shower floor), I realized precautionary measures need to be taken until that valve is fixed. Don't want the boat to sink because of excessive water intake through the front head toilet! 

Capt. Morgan by liquor store lot

Probably a good idea to shut off the shore water supply when we leave the boat anyway! Clay then proceeded to elaborate on all the other ways the boat could take on water and sink. Midway through his monologue I covered my ears to block his voice; I don't want to know all of that. Ignorance is bliss!

As Saturday played out, we joined a few marina friends at Huddle House for a farewell breakfast for Sailboat Steve's Nancy. A few swimming laps and a few biking miles repositioned me back at the boat to test ride Clay's rapidly-deteriorating bike. It's an easy decision with broken spokes, broken brake cable, and an out-of-alignment rear wheel. Parts are dropping like flies!

Homemade sailboat at Lady's Island

Too soon we are facing our Sunday morning departure from Lady's Island Marina with a crew of five hearty, knowledgeable male boaters (acting as dock hands) assisting our movement away from the dock. Earlier morning, a fellow Looper, anxious to get 'on the road,' made the mistake of trying to fool Mother Nature. And we all know it's not nice to fool Mother Nature! The force of the swift current caught our friend's trawler broadside, pinning him against both the dock and a

Lady's Island Marina

now-damaged sailboat. Drama of the day! Dockmaster TJ was reprimanding himself, saying he should have warned the boater a fourth time. Really, TJ? We needed no further encouragement to await slack tide! And our shore crew of five was there to make sure SaSea Sally was not a second casuality of this day. Kudos to all involved! Clay powered up to steer us safely out of Factory Creek and southward toward Hilton Head Island.

We continue our adventures as October days become fewer, and we move southward.

No white table cloths at the "Fill'n Station"