Sunday, November 2, 2014

Oxford to Annapolis, MD September 14 - 17, 2014

September 14 - 17, 2014

Lots of beautiful wooden boats


Just shy of two hours after departing Cambridge, MD, the SaSea Sally pulled into port at Oxford, MD, on the Tred Avon River, stirring up mud in our wake as we docked at a floating dock at Hinckley Yacht Services. Once checked in with dues paid and bath house codes in hand, Clay and I borrowed a couple of the marina's cruiser bikes  to tour this 'picture perfect' town, a descriptor that fits many of the Eastern Shore villages. Oxford has a history in shipbuilding and sailmaking, farming, oystering and crabbing; then came the second-home owners and tourists as well as boaters.
Pope's Austin parked in front
Not only is Oxford a favorite cruising destination of the Eastern Shore, its harbor boasts availability of every marine service, in large part why we're here!

Pope's Tavern in Oxford



Notable among the historic sites of this seaside village is the Robert Morris Inn where James Michener famously enjoyed crab cakes while working on his book "Chesapeake." Robert Morris was a wealthy patron who built a home in Oxford in 1710, a part of which was incorporated into the Robert Morris Inn which today offers fine dining as well as breakfast, lunch and dinner at companion Salters Tavern.  Also, Pope's Tavern is located in Oxford.
One of the "fence murals"
Cute fence mural


Oxford is noted for its picket fences
As Clay and I biked the streets of Oxford, we stopped often to review dining menus, to applaud Oxford's 'mural city' scenes placed around town (paintings on four-post sections of picket fence), and to enjoy the day! Finding no enticement for dinner among the numerous restaurants, we opted to return dockside for dinner aboard.

Not a shabby paint job!
Monday morning brought the anticipated short haul at 9 a.m. but not before we managed to seek out the corner grocery for hearty breakfast sandwiches and fresh cranberry-orange muffins. On terra firma and standing clear of the operation, I watched in rapt (or should I use synonyms fascinated, spellbound, enthralled, captivated, riveted, gripped, mesmerized, entranced) attention as the lift geared up in land-rover mode to hoist SaSea Sally out of her liquid environment, suspended by what looked to be awfully skinny straps for her girth and 20-ton poundage! Realizing, of course, that I could do nothing to prevent what could (awfully slim chance) happen, I opted to scoot off on foot to see what I might see, hear what I might hear, and otherwise enjoy another beautiful day in my allocated hour of freedom! Who needed stress? I left Clay to monitor the goings-on and to learn, quite confident that he would share his newly-acquired knowledge upon my return. Which he did...I got Zincs 101, Prop Cleaning 101 and Re-entry 101 in rapid succession. 

SaSea Sally on the Hinkley Yacht lift
Slightly fouled thruster!!!
Zinc that has been partially eaten away
Once afloat, SaSea was quickly in departure mode, cruising toward an anchorage location (Selby Bay on the South River) just outside Annapolis, MD. A five-hour cruising day sporting a clean bottom, new zincs, clean props and empty holding tanks, SaSea performed admirably with Captain Clay at the helm sporting a new brilliant royal blue tee with imprint compliments of Mark Twain "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do, so throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor, catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore, Dream, Discover" Appropriate, don't you agree? And, it was on sale at a local Oxford shop where I enjoyed conversation with a delightful shopkeeper while peeling off a $10 to relieve her of some of her sale merchandise and supporting the local economy. (Sorry, John, she had only L and XL).

Crab dining on grass on a boat bottom
Tuesday morning I put in my half-hour cardio on the Nordic Track (yep, it's still operational, although I wouldn't allow best friend or worst enemy on it due to performance glitches that only I'm willing to risk...whatta way to go, eh? Would make headlines someplace...probably the AGLCA Rendezvous or MTOA Rendezvous where I'd be trophied as an example (of what, tho? Compulsive? Idiot? Obsessed? Possessed? Dedicated?) I can see the headlines now: "Woman drowns after being kicked overboard by malfunctioning Nordic Track Skier"). While I was exercising, Clay was finalizing rendezvous plans with FiJi brother Sam Freeman and high school classmate Karen Hallows and hubby Keith, interspersed with a dinner date with repeat boaters Jim and Sanci Canella...all due to make appearances in the Wednesday thru Sunday upcoming. That man does like people...just like his mother!

Sally enjoying fresh air and a book
Following my tracking, we prepared for departure and pulled anchor (a disaster!) We'd been told to be careful in the Chesapeake Bay waters due to the presence of a bacteria. Of course, not wanting to subject myself to the water, I proceeded to raw-water rinse myself accidentally in the process of rinsing the anchor and anchor chain links with a defective hose nozzle made even more defective by the recent addition of a defective shutoff valve. When the first mate ain't happy, ain't NOBODY happy. I'm glad there were no witnesses; it wasn't pretty. But wet wipes to the rescue, I did a full-body wipedown, and we were off.

Morning jog
Upon arrival at the Annapolis City Docks with inaccurate directions from a directionally-challenged (I hesitate to label him 'inept') harbor master (who obviously arrives by land and not by sea), we nonetheless managed to find our assigned slip. We docked stern in to the tune of boisterous laughter and the sight of comical behavior and entertaining attire as an all-female guestlist boarded an adjacent boat for an afternoon of gaiety and frivolity with libations undoubtedly anticipated to flow freely. As our afternoon played out, we explored the downtown district, reconnected with friends from the MTOA Rendezvous in Cambridge for a drink aboard, then dined at a nearby restaurant. We, of course, witnessed the return of the boatload of females and marveled that none fell in as they disembarked.
Annapolis harbor and the Maryland state capital building
John Paul Jones crypt

I led the way across the bridge to Eastport, MD on our morning walk Wednesday morning which was a delightful, 


 
Navel Academy chappel
uninterrupted route and deemed undoubtedly one to be repeated. Even companion  
Clay agreed! The remaining morning hours were spent in preparation for Sam's arrival; reaching closure at 11 a.m., we left the harbor to tour the nearby Naval Academy. Clay had researched our options to be able to view the introductory film, to accompany our host on a guided tour, and to observe the quite impressive noon 'formation.' All midshipmen, numbering 4400, lined up in the courtyard prior to the
Mezzanine in the old gymnasium donated by Ross Perot
noon meal where colors were presented, orders were shouted, and bagpipes played (most notably for me, the United States Marine Corps hymn) prior to cadence marching into the mess hall for lunch. Can you imagine a kitchen preparing three meals per day for 4400? While on campus, I also took note of the prominence of the Under Armour logo, thinking that the company might be a good investment (and texted John to that fact)!
Lunch anyone???
Sam Freeman with his phone!!!
I squeezed in a couple loads of laundry in the bath house/laundry complex, meeting a delightful gal who highlighted some shopping opportunities in the waterside town of St. Michaels (a large selection of imported cheeses offered in the back of a small grocery store called the Village Shoppe). Sam arrived in his Enterprise rental car which gave opportuinity for a provisioning run for groceries; en route we encountered a farmers market where Sam went 'hog wild' while I tried to envision where we would stow all of the produce he'd purchased! Dinner followed at family-owned Lewnes Steakhouse across the bridge in Eastport...a gourmet meal while seated at the bar so Sam could watch his Nationals win Wednesday night's game. Check out the Lewnes Steakhouse website for a fascinating read on the Greek heritage of this delightful eatery. Thanks, Sam, for the fine meal and the delightful evening!

More upcoming on our travels with Sam aboard as we depart Annapolis on Thursday, September 18 bound for St. Michaels. 

Cambridge, MD, September 7 - 14, 2014



September 7 - 14, 2014

 Well known Calvert Cliffs
Clay's and my recollection of our arrival at the Cambridge Muni Yacht Basin is a big blur! He remembers too many boaters assisting our docking, all with different 'professional' ideas on securing our lines. Hey, rather too many than none at all! It worked--eventually--to our advantage as SaSea's lines were snugged, and fenders were set...a big 'ahhhh' moment! The fact that my hand-written journal (from which I type this email) is blank after the notation "arrived 4:30 p.m. & tied C-7; lunch meager as could not open frig" emphasizes the frenzy we encountered upon arrival.

Cambridge Lighthouse











Liquid natural gas loading dock
We came to Cambridge for the MTOA Rendezvous--that stands for "Marine Trawler Owners Association.  This is probably the largest group of boat owners in the US and many of them "cruise" on their boats full-time, year round; some just cruise for half a year.  Many members spend the winters in south Florida or the Bahamas and their summers in the Chesapeake or other "northern" locations.  Lots of MTOA'ers gathering to have a good time while exchanging ideas and learning the ropes of boating is what the week spent in Cambridge was all about.
Peggy and her twin sister Cathy, both boat owners
"Cambridge first sported a bustling tobacco trade which was snuffed out in the 18th century due to the American Revolution. After the war, Cambridge's residents revitalized their economy using the abundant timber that lined the Choptank's shores. Lumber mills acted as a catalyst for the birth of a significant boat building community which soon expanded to include shucking and oyster-packing houses which grew along the waterfront. Boats and boatbuilding are twin icons of the community's heritage." 

Ruark boatworks (museum)
Boat building in progress
Picture of O-45 in on the racing circuit
Clay with restored O-45
Sally with O-45
Passing in the wind..........
Currently, the 'charming' (per Peggy) town of Cambridge is undergoing resuscitation of which we'd been apprised by our mentors Hans and Peggy (Aqua Vitae). There are tons of new boat slips, split between the municipal wharf and the yacht club. And if the accumulation of boats at our current location is any indication, 'tons' is a good descriptor (maybe a bit exaggerated). The historic buildings along Race Street are being restored, giving opportunity for artists and craftsmen to fill the renovated galleries; guided tours of the historic adjacent High Street enlighten and educate visitors, including many of the MTOA'ers (sans the Logans; we just never managed to work it in). Several restaurants are moving into town, two of which we thoroughly enjoyed. It is apparent that Cambridge gives opportunity for exploration and education!

Hydroplane sponson on O-45
O-45 topsides
Restored racing hydro from the pre-WII era like John Logan's
All in all, it was a good week. Weather was, for the most part, cooperative, which made the walk much more doable from C-7 (our slip location as previously indicated) to the the complex housing marina office, bath house, gazebo (where impromptu informal gatherings were held), big white and little white tents (where scheduled roundtable discussions, meal functions, ship's store, membership meetings, etc were held). I clocked Clay's pace at 5:35 and mine at 4:45, meaning we got lots of exercise this week just traversing the terrain.

Sailboat heeling on the Chestapeake
The MTOA Northern Rendezvous 2014, themed "Changes in Attitude" was held Tuesday thru Thursday, so Monday was spent in preparation. Remember the cooperative weather (for the most part) of which I previously spoke? Well, Monday wasn't one of those days. With overcast skies, drizzle and chill, Clay and I opted to stay at the boat tackling the ever present, ongoing project list. We were interrupted late afternoon by a knock on the door...we'd missed the mentor/mentee meeting and were soon to miss the social hour. Since MTOA'er Nancy (a higher-up in the organization) had traversed the 5-minute +/- route each way to secure our presence, we felt obligated to join in the social hour...which we did. A casual dinner out of the galley ended our day (who felt like cooking after social hour with soon-to-be-forever friends?)

Choptank River "light house"???










The Tuesday-Wednesday-Thursday schedule of events gave many options for both Clay and me. Clay was far more diligent in maximizing the value of the MTOA presentations; he spent the majority of daylight hours in meetings, picking boaters' brains, and gleaning answers to questions he had accumulated over the past months. Me, I opted to treat myself to some 'me' time aboard. Having spent no time cleaning and organizing since Sus' traveling back with us from MO late August, I found myself doing both with Jimmy Buffett XM seranading me as I worked. Loved every minute of it as I am sure Clay did, each of us for different reasons. With regards to meetings, I picked and chose among roundtable topics of interest to me and attended knot tying, visited Ruark Boatworks (to see wooden boat-making in progress), lunched with fellow MTOA'ers on grilled hot dogs, visited a newer-than-ours model Mainship 430, smiled for group pictures (command performance), nabbed a ride to Wally World for reprovisioning, and dined at each of the three evening meals which followed social hours. I met wonderful folks, many of whom we will chance encounter as we play leap frog during our next months aboard; and many others with whom we will intentionally collide (given our quick bonding during these three MTOA days together).

Scene on one of our morning walks
As Friday dawned, I coerced Clay to join me on my morning walking route, delightful as it was. I followed the shoreline along the Choptank River each of the days in Cambridge. I passed under a three-block canopy of sycamore trees shedding their leaves in a darling neighborhood, crossed an isthmus where I'd usually find a crane poised for flight, found two tiny beach areas as well as some very impressive waterfront property. I wanted to share this with Clay, even though he's usually insistent on designing the day's route himself. Once a captain, always a captain I guess.

Shortly before 11 a.m., Terry and Donna Freed, friends and a co-worker (Terry) at Stark Bro's arrived for a boat tour and lunch date in Cambridge. We had a nice reunion followed by lunch at a downtown restaurant favorite of Donna's. Clay continues to successfully reconnect with folks from his past as we Loop the eastern half of the United States.

Cambridge MD Sunset
Cambridge MD Sunset
During a very high tide the street floods every 12 hours
Clay spent much of Saturday doing boat chores while I chose to explore the downtown area. After a USPS stop, I visited a few shops then beat feet back to the marina to avoid approaching storms which dropped temperatures for a welcomed change. Skies cleared in time for a casual dinner at nearby Snapper's.
Cambridge sunset
Sally at the playground
Imaginative play stations!
We met Toucan on the IL River in 2013
Sunday morning we found ourselves bidding adieu to the few remaining MTOA'ers still harbored at Cambridge. (As we 'closed up shop' in anticipation of departure, I was amazed that we'd not off-loaded our bikes for use this entire week as they would have been handy.) Just prior to disconnecting electric and water and untying and stowing lines and fenders, Captain Clay made an abrupt (but good and informed) decision to abort plans to cross the Choptank River to Gateway Marina. Instead he set sights on Oxford (Hinckley Yacht Services).  Gateway Marina listed shallow waters at both entry and dockside whereas Hinckley provided some cushion for our 4' draw. We had checked winds Saturday night to anticipate the best departure time, but we'd not explored anticipated depths, and Clay certainly didn't want to chance it. Bright boy! I was happy to take blame for 'having to have breakfast before departure (gave him/us time to THINK and to research).

Short haul to check and clean bottom
Short haul in Oxford MD
Hinckley offered the same services as Gateway in having boat pulled (short haul) so the bottom could be power washed and checked, zincs checked, props cleaned and checked, etc. A bit pricier was Hinckley, but also safer with a reputable staff. With those tasks on Monday's agenda, we departed shortly post noon and set our sights on an Oxford, MD entry in a couple hours.

Beautiful sunrise at Cambridge MD
More later as the week begins in Oxford.